reading-time

Reading Time at HSNY: See You in the Chat Room

This post is part of a series, Reading Time at HSNY. Today’s article is guest-written by our intern, St John Karp, a graduate student in Library and Information Science at Pratt Institute.

Image 1: Swatch Skin “Silverize” (2000) displaying the time as @922 beats.

Alternative Ways of Telling the Time

In 1999 Swatch launched a satellite into orbit around the planet Earth. Sputnik 99 (or “Beatnik”) carried a radio transmitter designed to synchronize the time for Swatch’s “.beat” line of watches. These watches could tell the time using conventional hours, minutes, and seconds, but their selling point was that they could also display the time using Internet Time, a Swatch initiative backed by MIT that divided the day into 1,000 beats. The director of MIT’s Media Lab Nicholas Negroponte, channeling the argot of the dot-com era, said, “Cyberspace has no seasons and no night and day. Internet Time is absolute time for everybody. Internet Time is not geopolitical. It is global. In the future, for many people, real time will be Internet Time.”

The Horological Society of New York (HSNY) has an extensive collection of ephemera in its library, and during my internship, I was able to dig up a number of Swatch catalogs from the late 1990s and early 2000s that showcase Swatch’s attempt to reinvent time (see image 1).

Decimal time and alternative time-keeping systems have a history as long and checkered as my pajama pants. The French revolutionaries in the 1790s proposed decimal units of time as part of the Republican calendar, which reinvented the calendar with new months and seasons and set the year One as the first year of the French Republic. Horologists such as Louis Berthoud made clocks and watches that displayed this metric time, and several of HSNY’s books detail the history of these gorgeous pieces (image 2). Sadly the Republican calendar did not outlast the revolution, though I’ve calculated that my birthday would have fallen on the first day of Thermidor — the month when people tended to get assassinated.

Image 2: A French Revolution-era clock with a ten-hour dial, from “La Révolution dans la Mesure du Temps,” a book in HSNY’s library.

In a similar vein, Fritz Lang depicted a 10-hour clock in his film Metropolis, both as an aspect of the film’s futurism but also as a symbol of the mechanization of humanity. In the same film, a man is made to function as a machine part by physically moving the hands on a large dial to match a sequence of light bulbs (image 3). Traditional Chinese timekeeping uses the shí, a unit of measure that divides the day into 12 hours (an interesting parallel to Western timekeeping). However, it also employs the , which represents one-hundredth of a day and places it squarely in the category of decimal time.

Image 3: A man clings to the hand of a ten-hour clock in “Metropolis” (1927).

The main reason a decimal clock failed to take off in Western timekeeping might be mathematical. When an hour has sixty minutes, a third of an hour is a round number that lines up with the twenty-minute mark. A decimal clock, on the other hand, with one hundred “minutes” in an hour, would mean that a third of an hour would be 33 ⅓ minutes and would not align with any indicators on the clock face. The twenty-four-hour day and sixty-minute hour are in fact so convenient that, in training simulations for the planet Mars, NASA employs a time system that simply stretches Earth hours and seconds to last slightly longer and sync up with the Martian day.

Perhaps another reason decimal time never caught the popular imagination is because it carries an element of the uncanny. George Orwell’s Nineteen Eighty-Four famously opens with, “It was a bright cold day in April, and the clocks were striking thirteen.” The thought of a clock striking thirteen is so unnatural that it can presage the horrors of living under a totalitarian state. In Eugène Ionesco’s play The Bald Soprano the clock strikes as many as 29 times while two couples engage in alienating and unsettling dialog (see image 4). Like the distorted sense of space in Gothic literature, a clock that strikes the wrong number disorients us and fills us with a sense of dread.

Image 4: From “The Bald Soprano”: “[The clock] is contradictory and always indicates the opposite of what the hour really is.”

Don’t be fooled by the wreckage of the past, though. Decimal time is alive and well. Every Unix computer since the 1970s, which includes your MacBook and your Android phone, keeps track of the time in seconds elapsed since the beginning of the “epoch” (January 1, 1970). This number, currently somewhere in the one billion seven-hundred millions, is due for a reckoning in the year 2038 when it will grow so large it will overflow the computer’s ability to store it, similar to the crisis that happened in the late 1990s with the Y2K bug.

Of course if computer programmers are the only ones using alternative time systems today, they’re also the only ones joking about them. The furlong-firkin-fortnight (FFF) system of units uses the fortnight as the basis of its timekeeping. Paired with SI units this makes the microfortnight equal to approximately 1.2 seconds. The same sense of humor is probably responsible for the fact that Linux computers can still tell the date using the calendar of the Discordian religion (a stoner-inspired parody in a similar vein to the Flying Spaghetti Monster). My computer informs me that today is Sweetmorn, the thirteenth day of Discord in the Year of Our Lady Discordia 3190.

Image 5: Swatch Signs “Net” (1996)

Talk of computers brings me back to the dot-com era when the Internet was still shiny and new. Swatch had toyed with engaging in internet culture as early as 1996 when they released a watch that made prominent use of the @ sign (see image 5). Swatch, holding fast to the @ as an indicator of internet cred, repurposed it in 1998 as the beat symbol for their Internet Time. The premise of this timekeeping system was that it would be the same number of beats in any location around the world, neatly defenestrating the entire concept of time zones but failing to replace them with anything else. You could say to your friend in Norway or Australia, “Meet me in the chat room at @722 beats,” but you would have no idea whether 722 beats would be early in the morning or late at night. Swatch, perhaps guiltily aware of the flaw in their system, appeared to draw attention to it in a promotional video in which a man is woken up by a friend calling from a different country because the friend is using Internet time and doesn’t understand how early he’s calling. The two go back and forth about what time it really is, but the friend doesn’t get the concept of time zones now that he’s discovered Internet time.

Image 6: Swatch Skin “Shadiness” (2000) displaying the time as @431 beats.

The Planck time is the shortest unit of time possible given the laws of physics, but that is still longer than Swatch’s ill-starred satellite was operational. It ran afoul of commercial broadcasting regulations and had its batteries removed shortly before it was released into orbit from the Mir space station. It was decommissioned before they even pushed it through the airlock, and became garbage floating in space. Internet Time persisted as a key part of Swatch’s digital offerings for the next few years but the catalogs in HSNY’s library show that Internet Time had largely dropped off the radar by about 2003. The official Internet Time website, however, is still online and loyally informing me that it’s @583 beats right now. See you in the chat room!

Reading Time at HSNY: Diamonds Are a Watch’s Best Friend

This post is part of a series, Reading Time at HSNY, written by our librarian, Miranda Marraccini.

For much of the past few centuries, watchmaking comfortably occupied a position as part of the jewelry trade. It’s one reason why journals in our library at the Horological Society of New York (HSNY) often contain references to both, as is the case with the German title “Schmuck und Uhren.” Uhren means watches, and if you’re familiar with Yiddish, don’t worry, it’s okay to say schmuck in German–it just means jewelry.

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An issue from the first year of publication of “Jeweler’s Weekly,” dated March 3, 1886, demonstrates the connections between the trades. In New York, jewelers had already established a thriving business district on Maiden Lane. This area near the southern tip of Manhattan was the center of the jewelry trade, including watchmaking, from around 1800 through the beginning of the 20th century. In fact, one of HSNY’s founders, George Schmid, had a watch repair shop just off Maiden Lane in the 1880s. 

The “Jeweler’s Weekly” office address is printed on the front cover of the magazine: 41-43 Maiden Lane, a few doors down from what would be the Diamond Exchange, an early skyscraper reinforced to support the weight of jewelers’ heavy safes. The cover (image 1) shows a clock in the lower left corner, and is subtitled “A journal for the jewelry diamond watch silver ware & kindred trades.” (Unrelated, a couple of cupids in the sky above send a message of love by telegraph.)

A two-page spread inside the magazine (image 2) shows an inventory of some of the most well-known watch manufacturers at the time. On the American side: Waltham, Elgin, and Illinois. On the Swiss: James Nardin (cousin of Ulysse), and Vacheron & Constantin. There are also some less familiar names including the “Lady Racine” watch pictured, as well as Bryant & Bentley, seller of “fancy stone rings.” Much like today, there’s a healthy market for imitation gems, including one brand of imitation diamonds called “solar brilliants.”

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On another page, the Illinois watch company advertises “the smallest American watch made” with an engraving showing the movement, presumably at actual size, about 33 mm (image 3). An advertisement I particularly enjoy, for Abbott’s patent stem-winding attachment, shows a caricature before and after: a grumpy-looking man with mutton chops is upset because “his watch has run down and his key is in the pocket of his other pantaloons” (image 4). On the right, his face is alight–Abbott’s stem-winding attachment has ensured that he is never again in this sad position! 

Abbott’s invention essentially transforms a key-wound watch into a stem-wound watch, that you could wind with just your fingers. This advertisement came out around the time when watches transitioned from key-winding to crown winding (hence the “great reduction” in the price of key-winding movements above). So the problem Abbott’s attachment solves would not be a common one for much longer.

I include this curiosity not to mock our glum, keyless friend, but rather to undercut the impression many of us have of people from this period, mainly from posed photographs, as serious, somber, and humorless. They knew how to have fun in 1886, as anyone who’s watched The Gilded Age this season will know! The watch and jewelry trade was no exception.

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Ads also show how peripheral trades served the same clientele and marketed themselves toward jewelers: makers of “fine cut glass,” china, silverware, spectacles, thimbles, buttons, pens, display cases, music boxes, and something called an “automatic eye-glass holder.” People working in these trades often made use of the same materials and techniques as watchmakers, and sometimes occupied the same workshops. If you could engrave a spoon handle, you could probably engrave a watch case, and people in New York in the late 19th century were doing both.

As far as non-advertising content, there isn’t much in the magazine, but there are updates on new technology, job postings, and industry surveys in various countries. Columns tell jewelers the industry news of the week, including information about robberies (“A paper of diamonds was seized…under peculiar circumstances”) and about people in the profession (“John [Redacted], an old Cleveland, Ohio, jeweler, is insane.”) 

For New York jewelers, there are more detailed updates about members of the community, even covering minutiae like one Mr. Bliss’s troublesome knee inflammation! Again, far be it from me to mock Mr. Bliss, who was just getting ready to go out West on a selling trip before his knee acted up. Rather, the level of concern and care among the community is touching. It reminds me of the early members of HSNY, who founded the organization to support each other and their loved ones, providing a stipend when members were unable to work. In 2020, HSNY revived this spirit to support working watchmakers through the pandemic.

In addition to the “Jewelers Weekly,” our library features a number of volumes of the “Jewelers’ Circular-Keystone,” a merger of several related magazines which is still published today as JCK. I know that this publication was an early part of our collection because one of the volumes is stamped in gold “property of the Horological Society of New York.”

I can’t capture everything that goes on in the many pages of this magazine, but its earlier issues are full of stunning Art Nouveau-style illustrations, as shown in images 5 and 6—covers from 1903 and 1911, respectively. Advertisements of the early 20th century feature trendy items of the time such as railroad watches, auto clocks, leak-proof fountain pens, and electric lighted signs for businesses. Although some of the content focuses on the business part of the jewelry trade, a “Technical Department” feature in the magazine includes “lessons” by noted horologists on topics like “The Influence of the Escapement on the Isochronal Vibrations of the Balance.”

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Later issues start to use eye-catching photography and color on the cover to lure readers (see image 7). A read-through of the 1950 volume of “Jewelers’ Circular-Keystone” shows how jewelry provided women an entry point into the horological trade, and not just as models or muses. In the January issue, a story with photographs features Edwina Duvall, a high school senior in Pasadena who decides to enter the profession (image 8). She gets a job with a jewelry shop owner who is at first skeptical that it might be a young girl’s “romantic” idea to work there, just a “passing whim.” After only a week, however, the shop owner is convinced of her aptitude, and upon her graduation, he offers her a full-time job, saying she knows as much about the business as those who’ve been in it for years. For her part, Edwina is thrilled that she’s already made several sales over $300, including watches selling for around $150 (about $1,900 today.)

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JCK had a national audience, but for those interested in New York history, the ads in this 1950 edition of the magazine, which list the addresses of businesses, clearly show that the center of gravity for the trade had shifted. Jewelers no longer call Maiden Lane home and have moved to the Diamond District on West 47th Street between 5th and 6th Avenues–where the jewelry industry still thrives today, just three short blocks from HSNY headquarters. A recent ABC News piece filmed in our library and classroom, below, features interviews with female entrepreneurs of the Diamond District, who would have made Edwina in Pasadena proud.

In a “High Snobiety” article that quotes HSNY Deputy Director Carolina Navarro, Scarlett Baker writes that watches have more recently become dominant in store windows in the district due to demand: “47th Street has etched itself on the horological map as the place to go in the US for rare Rolexes, niche Patek Philippes, and Audemars Piguets. And the street’s promise of hard-to-come-by haute horology is second only to the knowledgeable merchants that occupy it.” Image 9 shows a tableau of the Diamond District during the evening rush hour, with its iconic diamond-shaped street lights visible above the swirl of pedestrians and flashing neon.

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Although we still subscribe to jewelry-related journals at HSNY and they’re always available for perusal at our library, I wanted to include a mention of a few non-periodical books. One is the recent Bulgari: Beyond Time, a very beautiful and hefty coffee table volume that you might be able to spot in one of the pictures in my article about big and small books. Other items in our collection focus on watchmakers who are also known for their jewelry, like Cartier, or on techniques that apply to jewelry, like engraving on precious metal. We even have two new books about the Diamond District written by authors with personal connections to 47th Street, “Diamond Stories” by Renée Rose Shield and “Precious Objects” by Alicia Oltuski.

Looking at these books and magazines reminds us that watches are and have always been jewelry. They’re not only jewelry–they also occupy a position of some practicality that other pieces of jewelry might not–but they proudly belong to the trade. If you walk down 47th Street today, you’ll see that the heritage of horological jewelry is alive and ticking, glittering at you from behind thick glass, shining out into the loud, bright city night.

Reading Time at HSNY: All Books Great and Small

This post is part of a series, Reading Time at HSNY, written by our librarian, Miranda Marraccini. 

When it comes to watches, they come in all sizes. Bigger is not necessarily better. There are dainty dials, shining with miniature detail above equally minute movements, marvels of micromechanics. There are huge slabs that look like they need their own checked luggage tags. And there are medium-sized watches that try to be all things to all people–as ubiquitous as a Toyota Camry. 

The same goes for books. Today I’ll share with you some of the biggest and smallest specimens in the HSNY library. Some are so large they could be used as solar shades (if we weren’t concerned about UV damage to the books) while others could be smuggled in your cheek.

The big books in the library were easy for me to find because, well, they announce their presence. They’re the Panerais in the room, beefy, all-around chonks. If you’re a librarian who works with them, you can go ahead and skip arm day. In image 1, you can see a selection of our biggest books, with two 750 mL bottles for scale. Their publication dates range from 1765 to 2023.

One prominent, incredibly unwieldy book in our collection is J. P. Morgan’s catalog of watches (the red book in image 1). This might sound familiar, because the name J. P. Morgan is even more omnipresent in American life than a Toyota Camry. Morgan, a financier, was a collector of many things, not just clocks and watches–a visit to the Morgan Library & Museum in New York City will give you a sense of the scale of his collection of rare books, fine art, gems, and other objects. Morgan donated his watches to the Metropolitan Museum of Art in 1913, where they remain to this day. We have a copy of Morgan’s illustrated collection catalog. 

Morgan produced a very limited number of hand-colored editions of this catalog printed on vellum and finished with bits of real gold. One of these copies sold in 2012 for $26,000, and you can see a few pictures of the sumptuous illustrations here. In our library, we have a more modest facsimile in black and white, but even the facsimile is quite a rare book. Pound for pound, it’s also one of the heaviest in our collection at 13 pounds, 12 ounces, roughly the weight of a plump cat. It measures 15 inches tall by 12 inches wide and is over four inches thick (in image 2, a can of sparkling water for scale.)

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Image 3, a plate from Morgan’s collection catalog, shows a silver watch in the shape of a skull, a popular motif when this watch was produced, around 1600. Watches of this type are intended as a kind of memento mori, meaning that every time you look at this watch, you should think about how you’re one second closer to your inevitable death. Its jaw unhinges to reveal the movement in its mouth. Snap, your time’s up!

In image 4, a relatively tamer watch from 1660, made by Henry Grendon, displaying an intricate engraved dial covered by an octagonal-cut rock crystal. The outer case, shown below the watch, is made of shagreen, which is processed shark or rayfish skin. Even though the color isn’t visible in this version, you can see the pebbly, bubbly texture of the shagreen, further ornamented by silver stars. The catalog’s enormous plates, replicating the details of a watch in real size, are what make the book so desirable and expensive, then as now.

One of the oldest big books in our library is Diderot’s “Encyclopédie,” coming in at 16 inches tall by 10 ½ inches wide (image 5, no trick photography used).  Denis Diderot edited this famous work in the second half of the 18th century, during the Age of Enlightenment, when a group of authors hoped to present a secular, all-encompassing version of scientific and cultural knowledge. The encyclopedia consisted of 28 volumes, with a full 11 of them made up of plates (engraved, printed illustrations). We have only one part of one volume, which includes the plates from the section on Horlogerie. Because that’s the only one we care about, n’est-ce pas?

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Our volume, published in 1765, contains 64 plates, alongside an editorial text that is 25 pages long, most of it a detailed description of each of the images. (The encyclopedia entry for “horology,” attributed to renowned horologist Ferdinand Berthoud, was published separately from these plates.) 

I won’t be able to include many of these incredible images, but you can see high-resolution scans of all of them on this academic website: the first section contains 51 images while the second section contains 13 additional images. 

Some plates illustrate movements by particular watchmakers, like the equation clock by Berthoud pictured in image 6. Some focus on horological tools, from those still familiar to a modern watchmaker (image 7) to those that may now appear less familiar (a machine for experiments on the friction of pivots in image 8). Other exploded schematics show all the parts of a watch or clock (image 9) or specific features like a repeater (image 10).

Our smallest books were harder for me to find in the library than the big ones, but once found, they excel in usefulness. Imagine, someone challenges your escapement knowledge in a social situation. But then…you pull out your four-by-six travel-sized copy of “An Analysis of the Lever Escapement” and confidently prove that it was in fact Thomas Mudge who first applied the detached lever escapement to watches around 1754. Your friends applaud wildly. You’re suddenly invited to the best parties. Your life changes forever.

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One such practical pocket-book is another Berthoud classic originally published in 1759, “L’Art de conduire et de régles les pendules et les montres” (or “How to manage and regulate clocks and watches.") Our copy is a fourth edition that was printed in Paris in 1811 and measures about 6 ½ inches tall by 4 inches wide. 

Berthoud greatly expanded on his earlier written work in “Essai sur L'horlogerie,” the first edition of which appeared in 1763. Here at HSNY, we have first and second editions in our rare books case. They’re gorgeous, but they’re a solid medium size, so I’m not going to write about them in detail here. You can come and see them in our library in person, or look at one of several high-quality scans of other copies on Google Books.

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Lest you think we have only a big Berthoud (“Encyclopédie”), a medium Berthoud (“Essai”), and a small Berthoud (“L’Art de Conduire”), we actually have an EVEN TINIER Berthoud, this time in German. This book, originally published in 1828, is in fact a translation of “L’Art de conduire et de régles les pendules et les montres,” rendered in German as “Die Kunst mit Pendel- und Taschenuhren umzugehen und sie zu reguliren” (see both mini Berthoud and micro Bethoud in image 11, with a loupe for scale). Our copy is a little speck of an edition printed in Berlin in 1989, and it measures just three inches by four inches. A glance at image 12 (with a hand for scale) shows this book reproduces in facsimile the original fraktur typeface, which many German publishers used well into the 20th century. If you’re not used to it, it can be difficult to read even in a larger size. 

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Image 13 shows three books together: a tiny reproduction image from “Die Kunst mit Pendel- und Taschenuhren…”; the original fold-out plate from the small “L’Art de conduire…les montres”; and, on the bottom layer, a similar illustration from Diderot’s giant “Encyclopédie.” What is amazing is that the artist of the small engraving was able to convey nearly as much detail as the artist of the larger work, albeit with slightly less image clarity. Both images manage to show multiple aspects of movement construction, including a fusée.

You could imagine the tiny book being useful to a working watchmaker or clockmaker two hundred years ago. If you needed a quick consultation at the bench, you could keep this book within arm’s reach. 

Similarly, in the 20th century, watchmakers used planners or diaries to organize their lives and to have convenient access to useful information; we have a collection of over 50 of these agendas in our library dating from 1878 through 1971. Image 14 shows them above a shelf of very large books including Morgan’s catalog and two copies of Diderot’s encyclopedia.

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Image 15 shows a selection of colorful agendas in chronological order: 1906, 1924, 1939, and 1953. Two are in German and two in French. The 1924 and 1939 volumes show advertisements on the covers, but almost all of these agendas contain ads inside. In image 16, the same books are arranged in clockwise order from top left, and you can see the advertisements that grace the inside covers. 

In 1906, for instance, the inside front cover shows an American-style factory in Schramberg, Germany called the Hamburg American Clock Factory, which later merged with Junghans. Two smokestacks rise high over the long brick buildings, where the ad says they are producing fantasy clocks, tall case clocks, hanging clocks and the “cheapest, most beautiful house clocks.”

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I was surprised to find that the tabs inside the planners, indicating different sections, also highlight the ad pages, so that the 1924 agenda contains, for example, one tab leading directly to a table showing the price of postage, and one tab advertising Ulysse Nardin chronometers and watches. Then as now, brands no doubt paid for prime placement that would get them noticed by the largest number of working watchmakers.

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These planners include other useful features like a loop for storing a pen or pencil, tables of common measurements, horological dictionaries, brand indices, a section for recording receipts, and a ruler. The ruler on the spine of the 1924 volume shows it’s a petite 15 centimeters long, just under 6 inches and shorter than an iPhone (image 17). Despite their useful nature, most of our copies don’t seem to have been written in, though there are exceptions where some watchmaker has scribbled a calculation or an appointment time. 

A question this article raises is, why are some books so big and some are so small? This is not a stupid question. In fact, it’s so smart that I don’t have one answer for you. The answer is a combination of factors like cost of production, regularity of use, and the intended audience for the books when they were published. Was this book going to live in a library and serve as a reference for researchers? Or was it going to get carried around in a pocket and whipped out in the workshop? Did someone want to wow their visitors in a grand home, or impress their boss with their ability to fix something without assistance? Just like watches, books exist at an intersection of function, style, and artisanship, and some lean more heavily into one of these three priorities. A book isn’t just a bodiless container for information–it has its own corporeal presence, and it’s telling you more than just what’s in the text.

Reading Time at HSNY: Sex and Its Complications

This post is part of a series, Reading Time at HSNY, written by our librarian, Miranda Marraccini. 

Many watch collectors will tell you that watches can be sexy. Usually the adjective is interpretive, not literal–watches make us feel something, give us a flutter or a wink, increase our sense of confidence or attraction. But what about watches that are literally sexy? What about watches that reproduce sex acts on the small scale of micromechanics?

I was quoted in an article about erotic watches that was published in The New York Times on Valentine’s Day in 2023, and in honor of the return of that romantic period I thought I would share some more details from my research. My main sources are two books from the Horological Society of New York library, “Hours of Love” by Roland Carrera (1993), and “Erotische Uhren” by Christoph Prignitz (2004). Although these books are richly illustrated, I won’t be able to include many of the images in this article because they’re too explicit–all the more reason to visit our library in person and do your own research!

Erotic watches feature miniature images of sexual scenes on the dial or caseback of the watch, often hidden behind a decorative metal cover that springs open to reveal a secret painting. On some of these watches, tiny human automata (sometimes called jaquemarts) move when the watch runs, simulating sex acts. That type of moving erotica wouldn’t have been easily available elsewhere in the age before film.

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You can see a couple of tamer examples in images 1 and 2, from the book “Erotische Uhren.” On the watch in image 1, a repeater from about 1820, a soldier stands next to a young lady in a flowing yellow dress with an elaborate hairdo, who is holding her hand to her mouth as if laughing. On the back of the case, the source of the lady’s mischievous expression is revealed: her dress is hiked up and the soldier’s hand is on her bottom. The two lovers on the watch in image 2, a French example from around 1800, are similarly discreet. She touches his face tenderly as they gaze into each other’s eyes. When the metal frame is opened, they’re having sex under their clothes.

In the 18th century, erotic watches were a status symbol. They were expensive and not designed for practicality. Their heyday in the late 18th century was a period in France where mistresses and courtesans were a part of the aristocratic, libertine lifestyle, and middle-class people might try to emulate that perceived sexual freedom through acquiring erotica.

During the same period in the 18th century, there was also a flourishing of erotic literature in Europe, including novels like “Memoirs of a Woman of Pleasure (Fanny Hill),” by John Cleland and “Les Liaisons Dangereuses” by Pierre Choderlos de Laclos, as well as the writings of the Marquis de Sade. Erotic watches reflected the broader literary and artistic taste of the time. In “Erotische Uhren,” Prignitz talks about how these watches combined the idea of rationality and discipline (measuring time precisely, being on time) with uncontrolled sensuality and passion. They’re something hidden in plain sight, breaking a taboo in a place you wouldn’t expect.

In 18th-century Europe, since aristocratic men were the main audience for these watches, the erotic images were tailored to their tastes. They often feature “classical” or even biblical themes that would have been familiar to those with access to private education, including Leda and the Swan, nymphs and satyrs, and Venus and Adonis. Other common scenes are bawdy stories from Boccaccio's “Decameron,” the sins of priests or clergymen, lusty nuns, cheating wives being caught by their husbands, and the seduction of female servants and shepherdesses. 

For those unfamiliar with the sexual mores of past centuries, the subjects of these watches can be surprisingly diverse. There are watches with homosexual scenes, as well as people from different races and social classes. They sometimes include three or more participants enthusiastically enjoying each others’ bodies. During this period, colonization encouraged an idealized concept of freer, more natural sensuality among the people of colonized nations than among white Europeans. So a subset of erotic watches depicted sex scenes involving African and Asian characters. 

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Later on, there was a period when watchmakers adorned erotic watches with photographs instead of enamel paintings. In Image 3, an early 20th-century watch shows a series of photographs of naked women, printed on a rotating wheel underneath the dial. With a few exceptions, though, the subjects of erotic watches haven’t changed much since the 18th century; some of the more recent pieces are reproductions of earlier designs. 

Who was making these expensive and highly specialized pieces? In the 18th century, most of these watches were created anonymously or with false signatures, mainly by French and Swiss manufacturers. Watchmakers didn’t want to damage the reputation of Swiss manufacturing by signing erotic watches for export. Also, there were repeated efforts to suppress erotic watch production, most notably in Geneva in the early 19th century. 

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Some of the watches pictured in this article, however, are signed, like the one in image 4, produced by Breguet & Fils in about 1850 and pictured in the book “Hours of Love.” It shows a relatively modest scene of two women and one man in Roman-style dress, their intimacies strategically obscured by the dial. Similarly, we know that these watches were sometimes commissioned for a specific owner, but owners tended to keep their identities private, so the historical record is slim.

Although their popularity declined in the 19th and 20th centuries, erotic watches were certainly made into the 1990s with some regularity, including by Blancpain, Svend Andersen, and Jacquet Droz. Today, manufacturers of erotic watches no longer hide their identities. The Richard Mille 69 Tourbillon Erotic was manufactured in 2015 and worn by the rapper Drake in 2019. Inventively, it uses words, rather than images, to convey a sexy statement: three rollers engraved with interchangeable phrases function kind of like an erotic slot machine. 

The Jacob & Co. Caligula with “concealed erotic scene” is another recent addition, as is the Ulysse Nardin “Classico Manara” series featuring a woman/mermaid romance told over the course of ten watches. People are still innovating in the service of erotic art, as evidenced by a sketch I found folded in our copy of “Erotische Uhren.” The anonymous reader was attempting to figure out the mechanics behind some erotic automata, perhaps hoping to create a watch of their own (image 5).

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Looking at these watches in a social context, they served as a way for rich men to connect over private sexual jokes. However, even though these watches mostly portrayed women according to men’s fantasies, they could also show women with sexual agency, seeking out and enjoying sex. In an introduction to a 1997 Antiquorum auction catalog in our library that features erotic watches, Dr. Ruth Westheimer (yes, the Dr. Ruth!) puts forward a sex-positive view of them, writing “a couple can both share in the joys of beholding the incredible precision of the tiny movements, which will not only amaze in their intricacy, but most certainly trigger the sparks that later can ignite more fevered passions.”

In “Hours of Love, Carrera has a similar take. He coyly calls erotic watches “conversation pieces.” The conversation part comes in because, according to Carrera, “their purpose was to allow a man to entertain a lady in conversation which might then lead to a meeting of the minds or possibly bodies.” From my view, I think calling these watches “conversation pieces” illustrates something about how watches can have complicated, multilayered meanings. Watches participate in a broader cultural conversation, speaking about what their owners find valuable, interesting, or romantic. Again, erotic watches have never been openly accepted or publicly embraced; yet they persist, signifying a part of our culture that never gives up the impulse to shock and arouse.

Reading Time at HSNY: Women in Horology

This post is part of a series, Reading Time at HSNY, written by our librarian, Miranda Marraccini. 

If you’ve been paying attention to my articles, you’ll know they often note the ways that women show up peripherally in our library collection at HSNY: as loving inscribers and anonymous students; underage or endangered workers in watch factories; and horological tourists marveling at public clocks.

The women I’m writing about today, however, are not on the margins. They’re main characters of horology, people with enduring influence as authors, collectors, and makers. Many had an impact beyond their lifetimes, and all overcame gendered barriers to their participation in horology.

The early writers: Mary Booth, Mary Howitt

From the 19th century comes the tale of two Marys, both female pioneers in horological writing. Mary Booth, a polymathic American author, was the first editor-in-chief of “Harper’s Bazaar,”one of the first fashion magazines in the country. She wrote or translated at least 47 books in seven languages, including several that were influential in gathering support for anti-slavery causes during the Civil War.

She published “The Clock and Watchmakers’ Manual” in 1860, a selection of technical and historical writings by different authors originally written in French. We have a copy in our library at HSNY. She’s listed as the author, but the use of the initials “M. L. Booth” on the title page suggests the publisher was aware that a woman’s name on a horological textbook might not be a selling point. (The publisher, John Wiley, still exists, and focuses on technical and scientific publications.)

Though she calls herself a “compiler” in the preface, Booth has done much more. Her preface relates a succinct history of timekeeping from the first water clocks to the most precise marine chronometers, demonstrating her own knowledge of the topic. 

Six detailed fold-out plates show how to assemble watches. Multiple plates picture the inside of an 18th-century watch from different viewpoints (see image 1). The work is deeply historical, and highlights technical features of different watches from well-known watchmakers of previous centuries.

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On the other side of the Atlantic, prolific Victorian author Mary Howitt published “My Uncle the Clockmaker” in 1845. Our copy is signed in pencil, in a delicate hand, “Miss Elizabeth Nichols from her sister Eunice,” showing that women actually read this book, and found it interesting enough to give as a gift. It’s part of a series called “Tales for the People and their Children.”

Howitt’s “tales” are a loosely connected set of stories about British country life. In the story, Nicholas, the young son of a gentleman, apprentices himself to a clockmaker, much to the chagrin of his father who sees it as a “degradation.” His mother, however, recognizes the worth of his new profession: “The first gold watch which he could put together to his own satisfaction, was presented by him to her on her birth-day [sic], and was worn by her with delight.” A shrewd customer, she appreciates the value of independent watchmaking. Nicholas soon sets up a successful trade, amazing “the country people, who were willing to carry watches as large as turnips” with his “lovely little gold and silver watches.”

Nicholas singlehandedly starts a rage for watches in his small community: “...what wonders had Nicholas to exhibit and explain to the customers. The consequence was, that scarcely a person within twenty miles round was now satisfied with his watch. He or she must have one of the new construction…There was no talk but about levers, escape movements, chronometers and engine-turning, and ornamental engraving of cases.” Most of the rest of the book takes place without Nicholas: at the height of his trade, he mysteriously disappears, only to reappear in disguise decades later to rescue his family estate with his entrepreneurial fortune. It’s a Victorian tale of triumph for anyone who has felt undervalued as a watchmaker, or indeed anyone whose parents disapprove of their chosen career!

The Correspondent: Emily Faithfull 

Unlike the authors above, the 19th-century writer and activist Emily Faithfull addresses the topic of female watchmakers–in her case, women and girls working at the Elgin factory in Illinois. Faithfull, who was British, visited America for the first time in 1872 and included an account of the Elgin factory in her book, “Three Visits to America” (1884). 

Faithfull was a women’s rights pioneer who advocated for the employment of women in many different trades including printing and watchmaking. On her first visit to America, she recounts receiving an engraved watch with a letter that reads: “The hands of the many working-women who have been busy in its fashioning are thus extended to you in sincerest appreciation of the work you are doing ‘in helping others to help themselves.’”

Intrigued, she visits the factory years later, where she sees women working with lathes, making hairsprings, and cutting jewels. She writes approvingly: “In London it takes an apprentice seven years to learn what a girl machinist becomes a proficient in after the first twelve months' work.” Women are “earning good wages” at Elgin, but they still are paid less than men. The combination of the factory system and female workers means that “while it takes about seventy hours of skilled hand labor to manufacture a watch [in England], it can be produced [in America] in thirty hours by girl operatives.”

An unsigned 1869 article from “Harper’s New Monthly Magazine” contains a similar account of women and young girls working in the Elgin factory (then known as the National Watch Company), work which could sometimes be dangerous (I covered this in my article about children’s books at HSNY).* According to the article, employees “are equally divided between the sexes” and women are earning six to twelve dollars a week, while men are earning three dollars a day. The Harper’s article, unlike Faithfull’s book, is illustrated. Image 2 shows rows of women at work in the “train room,” some operating lathes in front of tall windows at the right.

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As I have discussed in some of my other articles, women were a ubiquitous presence in watch manufacturing from the 18th century onward. In 20th-century America, women suffered ghastly illnesses as a result of radium exposure while painting luminescent dials. Female students studied alongside men at watchmaking schools, as evidenced by the signed notebooks we have at our library.

Although women signed their names on dials as early as the 18th century, few women have achieved recognition as individual watchmakers; Rebecca Struthers, discussed below, is one modern example, as is Danièla Dufour, though they are by no means the only ones.

The Collector: Laura Hearn

Among the many catalogs of watch collections we hold in our library, one stood out to me because of the name on the spine: “Mrs. George A. Hearn’s Collection of Watches.” Although today there is a thriving community of female watch collectors, this is the only catalog I’ve found in our collection with a woman’s name on it (well, nearly, because it’s still under her husband’s name).

Like many female collectors, Laura Frances Hoppock Hearn collected alongside her husband, George A. Hearn. An article about her probate in the New York Times in May 1917 mentioned her bequest of a collection of laces to the Metropolitan Museum, as well as the collection of “many ancient and quaintly-wrought timepieces.”

According to an obituary from the “Brooklyn Daily Eagle,” Hearn, who was “characteristically a New Yorker,” was “deeply interested in the city and its progressive life and development.”

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Hearn loaned her watches to the Metropolitan Museum of Art in 1907, and had a catalog of the watches privately printed in the same year. A look at the frontispiece of the book (image 3) shows that Hearn collected big names in horology like Berthoud, but also stunningly decorative enameled watches in different shapes, like the butterfly in the center of the image. Our copy of the catalog contains the Hearns’ joint calling card (image 5), including their address on East 69th Street, then, as now, an expensive old-money address in New York City (something you’ll recognize if you watch “The Gilded Age”!). 

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Another female collector of the same era, Jeannette Atwater Dwight Bliss, lived a block away from Hearn on East 68th Street. Alongside her banker husband, George T. Bliss, she bought thousands of fine art objects, including clocks, and examples of European architecture, which were later donated to the Newark Museum. Other famous female collectors include royals like Queen Elizabeth I and Marie Antoinette, Austrian writer Marie von Ebner-Eschenbach, Fabergé collector Marjorie Merriweather Post, and French decorative arts collector Jayne Wrightsman.**

Modern Authors

In the 21st century, more women have entered into the world of published horological scholarship. One book that I often recommend to researchers in our library is Genevieve Cummins’ “How the Watch was Worn: A Fashion for 500 Years.” According to a review by our library’s patron, Fortunat Mueller-Maerki: “It has been about 500 years since people started carrying timekeeping devices around with them on their bodies, so it is a bit surprising that until now there has never been a publication dedicated to the question of ‘How to wear a watch?’” 

Cummins’ real achievement in this book is sourcing more than a thousand historical images of people of all genders wearing watches in all manner of surprising styles: on the wrist or on a chain, yes, but also on a chatelaine, as a ring, embedded in a handbag or lighter or snuffbox, as a pin, or as a hair accessory. 

Image 6 shows a spread from the book focused on nurses, all wearing watches that helped them care for their patients. Image 7 features ring watches, buttonhole and cufflink watches from the late 19th century to the late 20th century, as well as advertising materials.

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A recent internet analogue to this book would be Malaika Crawford’s “How To Wear It” articles for Hodinkee, in which she pairs a particular watch (say, the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight) with couture, vintage, and sometimes avant-garde clothes and accessories.

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For other horological books by women with a broad historical sweep, I recommend Francesca Cartier Brickell’s “The Cartiers”(image 8) or the 1990s bestseller Longitude”, by Dava Sobel. Both, of course, are available for perusal at the HSNY library.

Rebecca Struthers is the rare female author in our collection who is also a recognized watchmaker, having founded a workshop near Birmingham in 2012. According to her official biography, Struthers is the first watchmaker in Britain to earn a Ph.D. in horology. She lectured at HSNY in 2017.

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Struthers’ “Hands of Time: a Watchmaker’s History of Time” goes big: it attempts to tell the complete story of horology from antiquity onwards. According to a review, Struthers’ academic background makes it possible for her to contextualize recent developments and make us see that they’re nothing new, really–watchmakers have been inventing, scheming, and sometimes cheating, all along. Image 9 shows the British and American editions of the book from our library, which are gorgeously illustrated by the author’s husband Craig, who is also a watchmaker.

Struthers also addresses how the gender gap between so-called “men’s” and “women’s” watches originated in the 19th century and widened from there. Currently, the whole idea of gendered watches is the subject of thriving discussion, with different brands taking distinct approaches to the question of whether and how to market watches based on gender. Although it has not historically been a common topic of scholarship, several recent books focus on women’s watches, including “Jewels of Time: the World of Women’s Watches,” by Roberta Naas.

Struthers says in this New York Times interview: “The industry is still incredibly male, white and middle to upper class, and with that we’re losing so much potential talent.” HSNY addresses this imbalance today by offering scholarships to underrepresented groups including female, Jewish and Black watchmaking students. Although women have always been a presence in horology, I hope this article helps shine a light on women’s continued persistence, and how they have their hands in every part of the industry, from the metal to the marketing.


*The Harper’s article has been credited to Faithfull in other sources, but this seems impossible since it was published in 1869 and Faithfull writes that she first visited America in 1872.

**Thanks to Bob Frishman for compiling some of this information in “Horology’s Great Collectors,” a publication associated with the 2022 NAWCC Annual Time Symposium.

Reading Time at HSNY: Put It on My Calendar!

This post is part of a series, Reading Time at HSNY, written by our librarian, Miranda Marraccini. 

Maybe you’ll be watching the time ball drop in Times Square on December 31, waiting for the opening notes of “Auld Lang Syne” to start playing over the kissing, crowds, and confetti. Or maybe you’ll be asleep on the sofa, blissfully unaware of the minutes passing as the year turns passively over into 2024.

Whether or not you’re personally focused on the promise that a new year brings, there’s no denying that it’s a moment when people all over the world are uniquely fixated on the time–when, exactly, does something end and something new begin? How do we define what a year is? In this post I’ll focus on calendars: why they are the way they are, how they’ve captivated and frustrated people for centuries, and how they’ve been represented visually on watches. If you’d like a more in-depth education on the topic, I recommend watching the recording of “The History of the Calendar,” a panel that F.P. Journe led at the Horological Society of New York in 2016.

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As long as there have been calendars (at least since ancient Egypt) it seems there have been disagreements over how they should work, and suggestions for their reform. A number of books in our library at HSNY cover the history of calendars, including Michael Judge’s “The Dance of Time: the Origins of the Calendar,” David Ewing Duncan’s “The Calendar: The 5000-Year Struggle to Align the Clock and the Heavens – and What Happened to the Missing Ten Days,” “Mapping Time: The Calendar and its History” by E. G. Richards, and “Marking Time: the Epic Quest to Invent the Perfect Calendar,” by Duncan Steel. Incidentally, it seems to me that authors published a rash of these volumes around the turn of the millennium–I wonder why?

One spectacularly illustrated volume in our library is “The Phenomenon Book of Calendars,” originally published in the 1970s. On the back cover, the book boasts: “here, for the first time, all calendar systems past and present have been integrated in one graphically unique publication.” It even comes with a poster (image 1) that features many of these calendars for the years 1978-1979 including, but not limited to: Gregorian, Chinese, Hindu, Hebrew, Islamic, Aztec, Mayan, Roman, Bali, New Guinea, I Ching, and Zodiacal. In our calendar section, we also have books that cover some of these calendars in detail, including “Understanding the Jewish Calendar” and “Une Autre Temps,” which is a French language book about Balinese tika calendars. (A museum note explains how these carved wooden calendars help keep track of festivals and traditions in Bali.)

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In James Atkinson’s “Epitome of the Whole Art of Navigation” (1782), a book in our library that I mentioned in my article about longitude, Atkinson covers the workings of the “Gregorian, or New Calendar” (see image 2, which shows the title page). The Gregorian calendar first replaced the earlier Julian calendar in 1582, so it was hardly “new” when this book came out, but Britain didn’t widely adopt the Gregorian system until the mid-18th century. Atkinson’s book went through many editions where information was added as it became useful.

As Atkinson explains, the chief difference between the two calendars was in the calculation of leap years. The Julian calendar includes a leap year every four years–but that was making the year a little too long on average, throwing off the dates of fixed events like the equinoxes. In the Gregorian reform, some of these leap years have been eliminated. Atkinson methodically instructs his readers on how to use the new calendar to calculate religious holidays, the moon age, and the exact time of high tides, which would have been particularly useful to sailors.

In 1793, French revolutionaries created a brand new calendar with decimal dates, as well as a decimal time system. Heavily symbolic, the calendar started a new era with year One in the year of the revolution (1789), though year One was later changed to the year of the founding of the French Republic (1792); the new system was called the French Republican calendar. French reformers devised the timekeeping system in an attempt to eliminate royal and religious influences and set the country on a more “rational” course. Each week had ten days, although there were still twelve months. Each day was also divided into ten hours with each hour lasting 100 minutes. 

Ferdinand Berthoud, one of the most prominent and innovative European watchmakers of the 18th century, was a member of the committee that chose the winning proposal for decimal time. Below, a photo of a watch by Ferdinand’s nephew Pierre-Louis (Louis) shows how watchmakers in France adapted to the new scheme (image 3). There are ten hours in the center of the dial and a 100-minute track around the outer edge. 

A number of watchmakers even tried to incorporate the new decimal system right alongside the 12-hour system in their designs, resulting in some ingenious, chaotic dial layouts. Image 4 shows an enameled watch dial from 1793-1795, which has both a 10-hour subdial and a 12-hour subdial, as well as a Republican calendar (left) and a Gregorian calendar (right). Both images are from the book “La Révolution Dans la Mesure du Temps,” edited by Catherine Cardinal. The French experiment lasted until around 1806–a turbulent period commemorated in our library by additional titles including “Time and the French Revolution” and “Cadrans de la Révolution.” 

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A well-known American calendar reform effort in the 20th century was the World Calendar, whose chief champion was Elisabeth Achelis. Achelis, a New Yorker who was heir to a rubber company fortune, became utterly (and somewhat inexplicably) obsessed with the idea of calendar reform after hearing a lecture on the subject in 1929. She adopted the cause as her passion and her life’s work.

You can read more about the World Calendar here, but the general idea is that there are four equal quarters of three months each. So far, so familiar. But this calendar regularizes the length of months (so each quarter has 91 days) and adds two additional off-calendar or intercalary days, Worldsday and Leapyear Day. By these alterations, the New Year begins every year on Sunday, the first of January, and each exact date occurs on the same day of the week, every year. You can see a schematic of the calendar in image 5, with the two intercalary holidays sticking out like page flags at the end of the months of June and December.

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In “Of Time and the Calendar,” a 1955 volume in our library (image 6), Achelis claims the World Calendar she proposes would “lower taxes, reduce government costs, help home-budgeting, equalize salary payments” and other benefits. Among other things, paper calendars could be reused indefinitely because the year is the only number on the calendar that would need to be changed. Unfortunately the proposal caused problems for Jews and Christians alike because the intercalary days created two eight-day weeks, which would disturb the observance of the Sabbath.

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In addition to writing several books on the subject of the World Calendar, Achelis started the Journal of Calendar Reform to promote the system, and we have a volume of the journal in our library (image 7). The journal’s cover shows another rendering of the world calendar flanked by the words “order,” “balance,” “stability,” and “harmony.” Although the proposal gained some traction with the League of Nations and later the United Nations, it was never widely adopted. 

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One of the great challenges of watchmaking has been to develop devices to track and display calendar dates that do not need to be frequently reset. Inventors of ingenious modern-day perpetual calendar watches have devised solutions for previously incalculable calendar quandaries. For instance, we have a book about the Vacheron Constantin 57260, which was one of the first watches to feature a Jewish calendar among its 57 (!!!) complications when it debuted in 2015. The Hebrew calendar uses a lunisolar model, meaning both the moon and the sun are taken into account when determining the length of months and years. Other recent complicated models have represented the lunisolar Chinese Traditional Complete calendar, including a 2023 Parmigiani Fleurier watch, and the lunar Hijri calendar that governs Islamic holidays.

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Even among simpler timepieces, many watches and clocks feature moon phases, including the longcase clock at our library at HSNY. Image 8 shows the dial of our clock, with the moon waxing and waning contentedly across the top arc, in this photo nearly at full. If you want to build or repair a calendar watch or a clock with a moon phase mechanism, we have books for that, too! One is pictured in image 9.

Whether you’re excited about January 1, or whether it’s just another day to you, I hope you take a moment to think of the calendar as it flips forward, pulling us all along through our worst years and our best, our funerals, festivals, and our very human attempts to make sense of how time touches us.

Reading Time at HSNY: Veteran Watchmakers at the Bulova School

An assortment of Bulova materials at HSNY’s Jost Bürgi Research Library.

I promised in my previous article about watchmaking schools to highlight the Joseph Bulova School of Watchmaking, an institution that plays an outsize role in the history of American watchmaking, and also in our archive at the Horological Society of New York. In honor of Veterans Day, I’ve decided to explore the school’s mission, impact on disability rights, and contribution to watchmaking.

Bulova, the company, wasn’t the first to consider watchmaking as a potential career opportunity for veterans. Some veterans thought that watchmaking or watch repair could be a good fit for a variety of reasons: because it made use of their existing skills, because initial training could be completed relatively quickly, because it was an in-demand job, and because it required limited mobility for those who had been injured during their service. 

In 1921 the “Horological Journal,” a British watchmaking magazine published by the British Horological Institute (BHI), which we have in our collection, printed an article called “Training our Disabled in Watch and Clock Repairing.” The article reports on the efforts of the BHI to recruit and train veterans who had been injured in the First World War. The Institute “was quick to realise the advantages offered by the watch and clock repairing industry to disabled men who were left with the free use of their arms and hands.” 

Like other professional organizations, the BHI saw that training could benefit both veterans (who largely preferred to support themselves through paid work rather than relying on pensions) and employers (who were short of trained watchmakers after the war killed many young men). The article counts over 1,000 men in training in the United Kingdom by 1921. 

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In 1945, in the immediate aftermath of another devastating war, the Bulova Watch Company Foundation increased accessibility for watchmaking students in the United States through the Joseph Bulova School of Watchmaking, which trained disabled veterans for a new career. Arde Bulova, son of company founder Joseph, established the school in 1945 with seven students enrolled. His mission was “to serve those who served us” with a tuition-free education. (Image 1 shows a drawing of the school above this motto.) At the time, business was booming for Bulova. An American company founded in 1875, Bulova made use of celebrities and the new technologies of television and radio to advertise its watches, especially the Accutron tuning fork watch.

Education and recruitment for veterans began even before they entered the Bulova School’s doors. According to a pamphlet from the 1950s, the Veterans Administration (VA) invited Bulova to establish training programs inside hospitals like Walter Reed, so veterans could start learning even before they were released. 

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With company money, Bulova built a specially designed school in Woodside, Queens. In a 1950s promotional pamphlet in our collection (image 2), pictures of the school show how the building was designed to prioritize wheelchair accessibility: “There is an elevator with doors at opposite sides, so that a man need not turn his wheel chair around to get out. Entrance doors open by an electric eye. Ramps instead of thresholds at all rooms…Floors of cork to prevent skidding.” There was also a fully outfitted rehabilitation facility on campus with an on-staff physical therapist, and after 1965, a fully accessible heated swimming pool.

Interestingly, this pamphlet, which was produced in collaboration with the VA, calls the training program implemented at the school the “Bulova Plan,” a “pattern for American Industry.” It recommends the Bulova Plan to “any producer of light and durable goods,” not just to other watch companies. Its final page even includes contact information for a specific VA employee who can offer advice on how to train disabled veterans for different industrial jobs. 

Not only does this brochure promote Bulova, it forcefully advocates for the employment of rehabilitated veterans in general, who “have the stuff to stick to difficult jobs.” Bulova deliberately worked to make hiring disabled veterans easy for employers, so that they would recognize it as a business opportunity, rather than a charitable obligation. Veterans are not to be pitied or sentimentalized, the pamphlet insists–they should be rightly appreciated for their skills and value in the workplace.

Bulova’s school had always been open to those who were not disabled veterans, but disabled veterans were given priority, and for the first few years they filled all the spots. In 1950 the school began to accept disabled civilians and eventually, non-disabled students.

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A 1951 press release in our collection describes a visit by U.S. Vice President Alben W. Barkley (who served under President Truman) on the occasion of the fifth anniversary of the graduation of Bulova’s first class of 20 veterans (image 3). In an accompanying image, students work at rows of tables in a huge room that could accommodate 125 learners (image 4). Some students can be seen using wheelchairs to navigate the space; each bench could be adapted to the student's specific physical needs. An undated video of the school also shows other accommodations, for instance, a student holding a movement with a prosthesis while working on it with his left hand.

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Another photo from the interior of the school (image 5) shows an inspirational mural depicting famous watchmaking moments throughout history, like the invention of the marine chronometer. The mural connects students with the longer, illustrious history of horology, helping them see themselves as part of a broader story.

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Students studied using the Joseph Bulova School of Watchmaking Training Manual, a text that became a standard and was reprinted in 13 editions through 2003. We have the manual in our library at HSNY, and it illustrates and explains the entire course, from Unit One, “staking balance staff,” to Unit 11, “finishing.” Of course, the training includes both schematics and photographs to help with common tasks like stem making, mainspring barrel assembly, friction jeweling, and escapement repair. Our copy even includes handwritten notes by an anonymous student (image 6).

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Many American retail jewelers publicly pledged to hire graduates of the Bulova School. In fact, more jobs were promised (1,400, according to one publication) than graduates were available. This meant graduates could be reliably guaranteed a position. In addition, they had the use of a “model store” inside the school to learn sales techniques and other commercial skills before embarking on their careers.

In addition to its primary focus, the Bulova School was also a sports powerhouse. By 1950 the school had already assembled a wheelchair basketball team called the “Bulova Watchmakers” who competed around the country (image 7). Students at the school had access to other sports including archery, table tennis, pool, and volleyball. 

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In our library, we have photographs of Bulova alumni reunions and basketball games into the 1960s. Bulova co-sponsored the National Wheelchair Games along with the Paralyzed Veterans of America starting in 1957. Images 8 and 9 show the annual awards dinner of the Wheelchair Games in 1959 and 1961. Signs at the tables show some of the creative names for the teams: the Brooklyn Whirlaways, Pan-Am Jets, and Cleveland Comets.

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Facing declining enrollment at the end of the century, like other watchmaking schools, the Bulova School closed in the 1990s. However, the mission didn’t end there: Bulova’s initiative continues today as the Veterans Watchmaker Initiative (VWI), which offers free horological education to disabled veterans at its center in Delaware. (A video produced by Bulova, a founding sponsor of the VWI, shows some of the work that VWI is doing.) HSNY has awarded over $30,000 to the VWI over the last four years through our Howard Robbins Award, and has also awarded several individual scholarships to VWI students. All of HSNY’s classes are offered at no cost to veterans.

As for the Bulova School building, it still stands in Queens. Disability rights activists used the building for meetings when they were working to remove physical barriers to public access in New York City–because it was one of the city’s most accessible existing locations prior to the passage of the Americans with Disabilities Act of 1990. It is currently owned by the Church of Latter Day Saints.

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While I’ve concentrated on the Bulova School in this article, HSNY’s library holds a rich history of the company as a whole, including books (especially about the Accutron), service manuals, parts catalogs, and even issues of the “Watch Repair Digest,” a quarterly periodical published by the Bulova material sales division that offered advice and entertainment for the watchmaker. Digitized issues of HSNY’s newsletter, “The Horologist’s Loupe,” chronicle HSNY visits to Bulova’s factory in Queens and to the Bulova School in the 1950s and 1960s. In 1969, members enjoyed a tour of the campus as well as “a movie…featuring the Wheelchair basket ball team [sic].” A large portrait of Joseph Bulova even presides over our classroom space, offering kind encouragement to our students (image 10). 

It would be fair to say that Bulova, and the Bulova School, contributed to a New York watchmaking community that is more accessible, more inclusive, and stronger than it would have otherwise been.

Reading Time at HSNY: The Witching Hour

This post is part of a series, Reading Time at HSNY, written by our librarian, Miranda Marraccini. 

Image 1: “Le repas des singes” (“The Monkeys’ Meal”) pictured in Les Automates by Jean Prasteau (1968.)

“Death is the ultimate complication,” declares Watanabe, the provocateur artist and inventor of the Cassius Seven, the titular “Death Watch” of Stona Fitch’s new novel. At its launch, the wristwatch’s features sound like any other that would be covered in dutiful detail by a journalist: “full-jeweled movement, titanium case, sapphire bezel.” There’s just one tiny addition: seven spinning knives that might emerge from the case to kill the wearer in an instant by severing his wrist. Oh yeah, and once you put it on, you can’t take it off.

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Is it an ironic publicity stunt, a fake-out meant to embarrass the billionaire watch collectors of the world with a send-up of their irresponsible, nihilistic wealth? A postmodern joke built to raise questions about our “precarious existence” as mortal humans, which could indeed end at any moment? Or, as its inventor claims, does this watch really know the answer to the question “When will you die?” The characters in this book aren’t too sure, but they’re about to find out. 

If you’re a regular consumer of watch content, you’ll enjoy the industry parody in “Death Watch,” available to peruse in our library at the Horological Society of New York (image 2 shows the book alongside some of the non-deadly watches in our current exhibit.) This deadly watch, while fictional, raises the specter of the real-life watches that have killed or maimed.

One of the most obvious classes of deadly watches is the radium dial watch. Of course, you aren’t going to die from wearing a lumed watch today, even if it’s radioactive – but people did die, or were horribly sickened, in the process of creating them.

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The Radium Girls were workers at American watch factories who ingested poisonous radium paint. At work, they used their saliva to “point” the brushes, creating a fine tip to paint glowing details on dials and hands. Eventually, the radium paint caused their jaws to disintegrate, as well as other health effects, and was ultimately fatal for many. 

The Radium Girls later inspired a slew of books, plays, songs, and movies, as well as a labor rights movement that helped protect future generations of workers. Here at the library, we have a few versions of their story in print, including Kate Moore’s “The Radium Girls.” 

In a new graphic novel also called “Radium Girls,” which HSNY owns in French and English, artist Cy illustrates these “ghost girls” whose clothes and bodies would glow after their shifts, covered in fine radium dust. He focuses on real workers at the U.S. Radium Corporation in New Jersey in the 1920s, including Grace Fryer, whose bravery is recognized by a scholarship at HSNY (image 3). If you turn out the lights, surprise! The ghoulish glow of the book’s front cover makes the radium effect threateningly tangible (images 4 & 5).

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While the effects of radium are horrifying and sad, further down on the “just creepy” portion of the scary spectrum are humanoid automata. Books in our library cover automata in detail, since, like watches, they run on mechanical clockwork. Many people find them unsettling, with their too-wide smiles and their whirring indifference to the frailty of human flesh. 

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Some automata are merely visually upsetting–a particular “monkey harpist” in the museum catalog “Musical Machines and Living Dolls” will haunt my dreams until I expire. Images 6 and 7 show partially disassembled human and dog figures from the book “Les Automates” by Jean Prasteau, which will probably not emerge from the computer to murder you. Other automata are unsettling for more complicated, cerebral reasons: the workshop of Pierre Jacquet-Droz, an 18th-century watchmaker known for his singing songbirds, produced automata that were capable of drawing, playing music, and writing reprogrammable sentences, and could be called early computers. (You can still see them in action today at the Neuchâtel Museum of Art and History in Switzerland.) These automata, sometimes referred to as robots or androids, blur the line between human and machine, falling into the “uncanny valley” where they inspire fear and revulsion–in scientific terms, they give us the ick.

Of course human fears about almost-humans have accelerated in light of the current artificial intelligence arms race, but these worries have been around for centuries. In the 1899 story “Moxon’s Master,” for instance, a fictional chess-playing automaton, inspired by real-life examples, kills its creator after losing to him. Recently, a real chess-playing robot made headlines when it broke a little boy’s finger during a match in Moscow. The president of the Moscow Chess Federation was quoted as saying: “The robot broke the child’s finger — this, of course, is bad.” The robots are coming for us. Bad indeed.

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Ending my article on the least scary end of the horror-logical spectrum, I wanted to include a few images from a new acquisition at HSNY’s ever-growing library. “Five O’Clock Tea” is a French-language Omega advertising pamphlet from 1912 whose narrative can only be described as “trippy” (see image 8). The story, by Jean Richepin, calls itself a “modern fairy tale,” and is chock-full of goblins, fairies, and gnomes. A young girl, Didi, is suffering from a mysterious fever, which can only be cured by a visit to fairyland where she will meet magic creatures.

The doctor instructs Didi to breathe in a “magic smoke” composed mainly of opium poppies and hashish (really). Didi begins to see the creatures of fairyland dancing in front of her. The doctor explains: “Because we enjoy all our progress here [in the real world]… Steam, electricity, mechanics, have their elves, their fairies, their gnomes…there has recently been a brand new gnome among the fairies…who tells them the exact time.”

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In image 9, by artist Maurice Lalavi, a gnome with the body of an Omega watch appears in the sky over the ecstatic Didi, who exclaims “The new gnome of exact time, I see it!” This “gnome” has a heart that beats 18,000 times per hour, or 300 times a minute, a “metal heart, his escapement heart, his magical heart, made of wheels and springs which split time and create it by splitting it.” This advertising copy is carefully written for accuracy; an Omega watch-heart of 1912 could beat at 18,0000 vibrations per hour or 2.5 hertz, on the low end of the modern watch frequency spectrum.

The pamphlet closes with an image of the enormous Omega factory, subtitled by a production claim of 900 to 1000 watches per day (image 11). To tie in with the story, the publication also features full-color illustrations of the latest models (you can see an early wristwatch with a bracelet in image 10). Omega customers could have picked up this pamphlet at French department store Kirby, Beard & Co., a major Omega retailer at the time.

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Although this is not a work intended for children, it may be designed to appeal to adults craving a little connection to the fairyland of fantasy. The subject couldn’t be more practical–watches designed for precision–but the treatment couldn’t be more whimsical. Watches are part of the world of magic, the story suggests, amalgams of artistry and engineering that seem almost supernatural. But watches are just things, really–things that can inspire your daydreams or stalk your nightmares, make you smile or sweat, leave you feeling treated or tricked.

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Reading Time at HSNY: Watch Me Learn!

This post is part of a series, Reading Time at HSNY, written by our librarian, Miranda Marraccini. 

Image 1: Illustration from an advertising pamphlet from the National School of Watchmaking, Chicago IL, 1927.

It’s back to school this month for lots of kids and adults. While you might be busy stocking your kid’s backpack with trapper keepers and erasable pens (my references may be dated), watchmaking students are picking up their loupes and staking tools to get to work. But how do people learn to become watchmakers, clockmakers and watch repairers? What was horological education like in the recent past?

Here at the Horological Society of New York (HSNY), our library has advertising pamphlets, syllabi, and textbooks from watchmaking schools in Europe and America throughout the 20th century. Within the U.S., we have materials from no-longer-extant schools in New Jersey, Illinois, Pennsylvania, Missouri, California, Wisconsin, and Nebraska, demonstrating how widespread watchmaking education was at the time.

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One of the more charming educational pamphlets I’ve located is Some of the Hundreds of Items which Cause a Watch to Stop, published by the Western Pennsylvania Horological Institute in Pittsburgh in the 1940s (image 2). The authors of the pamphlet, designed for watchmakers and conveniently hole-punched to fit in a three-ring binder, seem to know that its title may be daunting. “Don’t become alarmed,” they reassure their readers. “The list is much simpler than it seems at first reading.” 

Indeed many of the directions are straightforward, such as “10. Does the guard pin appear in a straight line with safety roller?” and “77. Did you oil escape wheel teeth?” Some of the items on the list blame customers, as in “86. Failure to wind fully (ladies are especially prone to this).” Aside from its obviously practical use, the pamphlet also serves as an advertisement for the Western Pennsylvania Horological Institute and its “complete, modern, up-to-date experimental laboratory and research department,” where students can learn from a “pioneering” curriculum. 

Whether Western Pennsylvania was indeed the “finest in the country,” as it calls itself, is up for debate. Another WPHI pamphlet from the 1940s includes the altered tagline “World’s Largest Watchmaking School” and targets women for recruitment, declaring “A new field for women!...It enables women to be financially independent whether married or single” (image 3).

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In the horological hub of Lancaster, in the eastern part of the same state, the Bowman Technical School trained men and women into the 1970s in watchmaking, engraving, and jewelry work. Its historic building, which also contained a shop and an observatory, was recently purchased by the family of a jeweler who attended the school and has already been returned to a horological purpose as a Hamilton retail store. Image 4 shows the building in about 1910; image 5 shows the building in 2019.

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In image 7, Bradley Polytechnic Institute in Peoria, Illinois shows off its Horological Department in front of “Horology Hall” in 1923. The class is stunningly large by today’s standards.

Pictures in the Bradley brochure show students engaged in different stages of the watchmaking process at long tables. “Elementary Watchwork” was one of six divisions, and students could specialize in just one, such as engraving or even optics, if they wanted to make eyeglasses instead of watches (image 8). The brochure specifies that women are admitted to all departments of study, and the list of students and graduates at the end demonstrates this, with entries like Mrs. Estella Hinkley of Illinois and Mrs. A. Lindsey of Nebraska. Indeed, the founder of Bradley Polytechnic was a woman, noted philanthropist Lydia Moss Bradley. There were also students from as far away as Korea, Syria, and New Zealand. 

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Just like many opportunities for technical education today, watchmaking schools of the 20th century advertised the speed and ease with which you could graduate and get a stable job, even during periods of economic distress. They touted watchmaking as a career with exceptional financial independence and security. To make their promises, school advertisements used testimonials from graduates as well as reprinted help wanted ads. In the early 1940s, a letter from the American School of Watchmaking president, Herbert W. Hartley, assures: “Yes, after the war is over, and fine watches and clocks are again available to the civilian market, there is expected to be a TREMENDOUS DEMAND for them…Just when the war will end is, of course, anyone’s guess. But when peace DOES COME, will YOU be prepared!” Indeed, the post-war period brought fresh opportunities, including the Joseph Bulova School of Watchmaking, which trained disabled veterans for a new career. I’ll be featuring Bulova and its influence on disability rights in a future article.

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Hartley, at the American School of Watchmaking, uses abundant all-caps threats to scare prospective students into applying: “DON’T PUT IT OFF! Every day new opportunities are being offered to men qualified in this field…JOBS AND BUSINESS OPPORTUNITIES that might have been YOURS had you started YOUR training sooner!” Other schools had different, gentler approaches to recruiting: in 1956, the Chicago School of Watchmaking offered a free watch to anyone who enrolled, and they could choose from different men’s and women’s models (image 9).

Schools in desirable cities also used their location as a selling point, as is visible in the not-entirely-relevant images of men and women in bathing suits from the 1940s and 1950s (images 10 & 11) printed in California watchmaking school recruitment materials. Perhaps not surprisingly, the American School of Watchmaking in Los Angeles particularly exploited this angle in their advertising.

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Students who couldn’t make it to Los Angeles or any of the American watchmaking schools could enroll in the 20th-century equivalent of online classes: correspondence courses. In a correspondence course, the student would receive syllabi and lessons by mail, which meant there was a lot of paper involved. As a result, much more of the coursework survives in our library. (For in-person courses, handwritten notebooks are often the only surviving materials. You can see some beautiful examples of student work in one of my earlier posts.)

The DeSelms Watch School (images 12 & 13) was a “Home Course” established in 1903. An advertisement in 1913 in Popular Mechanics promises: “after you complete the course you will know a watch from A to Z.” The course took about 30 weeks to complete, although students could set their own pace. Tuition included the loan of a lathe, and students were responsible for acquiring their own beginner set of tools.

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Just like Bradley, in its pamphlet, DeSelms advertises its appeal to international learners, even including a photograph of one Gonzalo Quinones, a student from Costa Rica (image 14). And like modern distance learning programs, DeSelms touts its flexibility and accessibility, so that students who are currently employed or have other responsibilities can learn on their own schedule.

The De Selms brochure urges readers to make a change in their lives, dismissing all obstacles: “You may think you live too far away…You may think you haven’t enough spare time…Stop doubting. If you are going to succeed you are going to act…The DeSelms school makes everything easy for you, no matter who you are, or where you live.” There is an inclusive impulse to distance courses, then as now, which attempt to remove barriers to hardworking people who want to start a new career. These days you can still learn watchmaking and watch repair through distance learning, including in a British Horological Institute program

Today, HSNY continues the tradition of helping students overcome barriers to succeed as watchmakers. We assist watchmaking students by offering eight different scholarships, some of which are designed for students from underrepresented backgrounds in the field. If you’re thinking about a career in watchmaking, we encourage you to dip your toe in with one of our classes, which are built for absolute beginners. We too believe that “no matter who you are, or where you live,” you can become a watchmaker. So stop doubting, and get to work!

Reading Time at HSNY: Time Traveling for the Summer

This post is part of a series, Reading Time at HSNY, written by our librarian, Miranda Marraccini. 

Whether you’re traveling this summer or opting for a staycation, the Horological Society of New York (HSNY) has something horological to satisfy your globetrotting impulses.

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If you’re in New York City, come by to travel the world through our postcard collection. Most of you are familiar with our books–many of which I’ve highlighted in past posts in the “Reading Time at HSNY” series. But we also have a comprehensive archive of about 1,200 postcards from horological museums and sites all over the world–all courtesy of our generous benefactor, Fortunat Mueller-Maerki

Mueller-Maerki, who was raised in Switzerland and moved to the U.S. as an adult, collected these postcards one by one on individual trips and as a leader of horological study tours over several decades. Most of the postcards come from the horological hotbeds you’d expect: Switzerland, England, France, Germany and America. But there are also some surprising locales including Argentina and the Czech Republic.

Interestingly, Mueller-Maerki also amassed vintage postcards that people had already addressed and sent. One of my favorites shows possibly the most famous clock in the world, London’s Big Ben (see images 1-2). It’s not dated, but the one-penny stamp that the postcard writer used dates it from the reign of King Edward VII (1902-1913). A lady named Edith sent this postcard to her friend Blanche in Denver, Colorado (Wilfred Jurgens in the address is the friend’s husband’s name).

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You might notice that the caption reads “LONDON - The Houses of Parliament. - The Clock Tower.” Big Ben was never officially called Big Ben, and in fact that nickname first referred to the bell inside the tower, rather than the clock. The tower itself was simply known as “the Clock Tower.” Edith doesn’t mention any of these facts in her note. She’s preoccupied with the practicalities of travel (“we sail tomorrow”), health (“we are very well”), and her friends and family back home (“Marjorie sends a kiss to Mary”). She signs the postcard “Lovingly, Edith.” In Edith’s story, the famous clock is just a pretext for her to send her love. I like to imagine her coming back to her friend, a married woman, and telling her breathlessly about the sights and sounds of her overseas adventure. Here at HSNY’s Jost Bürgi Research Library we have an entire section of old and modern books dedicated to Big Ben, so if you want more information than Edith provides, please stop by.

In 1952, a different woman sent a postcard featuring an English clock tower to her married friend in Denver, this time from Buenos Aires (images 3-4). This postcard is in our collection because it features the Torre Monumental, another famous clocktower, at the time known as Torre de los Ingleses ("Tower of the English.") British citizens living in Buenos Aires funded the construction of the tower, hired a British architect, and imported engineers and construction materials to build it. 

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While public clocks are a frequent subject of postcards, a number of our cards show watch factories. Image 5 shows both sides of a postcard from the German town of Schwenningen, “the largest clock city in the world,” according to its caption. The front shows the Kienzle factory in the town, which, among other things, manufactured timing devices for Germany and the Axis powers during World War II.

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According to the postmark, someone sent this on April 14, 1958. Although the factory depicted is large, it still looks like a fairly traditional building, with its pitched roof and curved eyebrow dormers.

Our American postcards, in contrast, show off the features of the mega-factories of America: Elgin (image 6), Hamilton (image 7) and Waltham (image 8). The Elgin and Waltham images are from the turn of the 20th century, while the Hamilton picture dates from around 1940. Compare the scale of the building above in Germany’s “clock city” in 1958 with the behemoth city-sized factories in America, some of which were built 50 years earlier.

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At the beginning of the 20th century, American watch manufacturing was booming, thanks to a series of developments in standardization and mechanization, the “American System”. Below the image of the Waltham factory in Massachusetts, the postcard’s sender has written “Does this look natural?” which could be a private joke, but could also be an ironic remark about how industrialization had changed the area. Although there are still some trees, and the Waltham building is a bit more residential looking, it is not natural at all. It’s the height of technological innovation for the time.

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Image 9 features a decidedly groovier watch building, the Elgin pavilion at the New York World’s Fair in 1939. On the reverse of the card, there's barely enough room for a message from the sender, given all the advertising copy. According to this card, the Elgin Watch Building hosted “a fully equipped astronomical observatory and watch museum…an animated puppet style show” and a service where “watches of visitors are rated for accuracy, without charge.” There’s even a pre-printed “handwritten” message, in cursive, that reads, “P.S. I’ve just seen how time is taken from the stars. It’s exciting. Take my advice and make the Elgin Watch Building the starting point for all your World’s Fair sightseeing. It’s so conveniently located.” That’s a convincing pitch!

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Even with all this promotional text, the sender of this postcard managed to cram in a message to his “sweetie” that mentions visiting the Empire State Building, seeing the ship the Queen Mary, going to the hottest musical revue on Broadway, “Hellzapoppin”, and visiting a musical swimming show at the World’s Fair, “Billy Rose’s Aquacade” (image 10). An exhausting slate of events for one visit to New York! The writer, named Farley, takes a maximalist approach to the space he’s allotted, unlike Edith, who preferred to save her thoughts on Big Ben to relate in person.

Hopefully these postcards are a reminder to document your journeys, even the mundane ones, since you never know who’s going to be reading about them in the far-off future at some library on Mars. For now, from all of us at HSNY, we hope you have a great summer full of horology, relaxation, and adventure!

Reading Time at HSNY: Kids Talking Time

This post is part of a series, Reading Time at HSNY, written by our librarian, Miranda Marraccini.

Those of you who have been following my posts about our collection at the Horological Society of New York (HSNY) will know that as a librarian, I’m preoccupied with marks in books. I don’t disapprove of them–in fact I think they add immeasurably to the story of these paper objects and the people who loved them. At HSNY, we have lots of books that show traces of their owners, but the most adorable are the scrawls, signatures, and doodles left by children.

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One very well-loved children’s book in our collection is “Rollo’s Experiments” (1841). It stars the eponymous farmboy Rollo, seven years old, curious about everything, and quite easily distracted. The author, Jacob Abbott, wrote 14 Rollo books and they were popular enough at the time to have parody versions that skewered contemporary political figures.

We know a child read this copy of the book (or at least used it) because someone has colored in all the woodcut illustrations with what looks like a pastel crayon (see Image 1). Even though it’s sticky and comes off everywhere, this crayon is the charming evidence of how the book lived. Our copy is also signed in neat pencil by two girls, Sophie and Ellen Sword, possibly sisters.

In the chapter titled “Horology,” Rollo, playing in the sandbox with his brother Nathan, decides to make an hourglass. He quickly tires of this project because it involves washing and drying dirty sand. But then in the next chapter, Rollo’s father’s “hired boy” Jonas, who is a bit older, decides to make a sundial. In speaking with different adults in the story, Rollo and Jonas learn how to draw a meridian line, how to find the North Star, and how to build a gnomon (the triangular blade of the sundial that casts the shadow). In image 2, colored in by our eager reader, Jonas and Rollo work on their sundial, which is made out of some spare fence posts.

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Although “Rollo’s Experiments” was first published in 1839, it reads like any modern kids’ book. A blurb from The Mother’s Magazine, originally printed in the front of the book, says, “[Abbott’s] boys and girls talk and act like boys and girls, not miniature men and women.” Their dialogue and behavior still rings true today. The boys learn about how to create a sundial by building one, with gentle guidance from Rollo’s older, logically-minded sister, from patient adults, and from other books. They don’t understand everything, they make mistakes, and they get distracted and forget about their experiments. Rollo never finishes the hourglass. He gets a time-out for fighting with his little brother. And as he learns, the children reading learn along with him. 

Another book in our library with annotations by a child is “Industrial Curiosities: Glances here and there in the World of Labour,” published in London in 1880 (our copy is the 1891 edition). One of my previous posts focused on a similar encyclopedia of the trades owned by generations of women in a family, some of whom signed their names in the book as children. “Industrial Curiosities,” as in that case, is not a book specifically written for children. This book has different sections explaining the history of various industries, like leather, perfumes, and even “seals and sealskins.” We own a copy of the book because of its long section about clocks and watches. 

The end of the 19th century was a time of major change in horology, when watches were beginning to be produced in factories by machines, instead of in small workshops by hand. Pocket watches became more attainable and eventually ubiquitous. Alexander Hay Japp, the author of “Industrial Curiosities,” writes, “the penalty the City-man pays for the keyless gold repeater in his pocket is that he has lost the simple faculty…of reading time by the sun.” Sound familiar? Replace the word “keyless gold repeater” with “phone” and “sun” with “watch.”

Japp gives a vivid picture of the recent mechanization of the American watch factory. His description, which he quotes from an article by the women’s labor activist Emily Faithfull, makes no secret of the fact that children were working in the National Watch Company factory in Elgin, Illinois. 

When drilling holes in the mainplate for screws, “a little girl cuts them with a needle-like drill, which revolves like lightning…another girl, with a chisel, whirling with equal rapidity, cuts away the ragged burrs or edges.” In the train room, a “girl in charge” cuts the teeth of wheels. “Nimble-fingered girls” also work in painting dials, engraving parts, inserting mainsprings, and in manufacturing the 44 screws needed to assemble each watch. 

Some of these girls were young adults or older teens, but some were children (“little girls” as well as boys) working with heavy machinery in dangerous conditions. A girl in the electroplating room in Elgin “was kept at home for three weeks, with sores upon her hand” caused by contact with the “deadly poison” solution. Their work prefigures the “Radium Girls” of the 20th century, who painted dials with poisonous radium, one of whom is now honored by a scholarship at HSNY.

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Our copy of “Industrial Curiosities” contains this pencil drawing of a man in a hat and a woman in a triangular dress holding hands (Image 3). The woman has curly hair and no fingers, while her companion has all his fingers and is leaning on an unidentified stick-like object. A child took this book off the shelf and (perhaps sneakily) added their own unique touch. This sweet little drawing is a reminder that the kids in these books, and the kids who read them, were real people with individual struggles, quirks, hobbies, and triumphs. “Rollo” and “Industrial Curiosities” together show a range of experiences for kids of this period: working as a hired hand, working in a factory, hanging out on a farm, learning science at home.

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At HSNY, in addition to these old, much-loved books, we have a whole collection of modern juvenilia, which is the formal library way of saying children’s books (though I prefer the latter). There are classic favorites for chapter-book readers like “The Time Garden” by Edward Eager (1958), in which a group of kids travel through time with the help of a talking toad and a magical sundial in a thyme garden (get it?). In Lloyd Alexander’s “Time Cat” (1963), a cat named Gareth leads his boy on a journey through nine lives over thousands of years. And of course we have a few copies of the first Nancy Drew story, “The Secret of the Old Clock”, an exciting tale involving a missing will, hostages, and a car chase (1930). In a more recent favorite, Brian Selznick’s “The Invention of Hugo Cabret” (the basis of the movie “Hugo”) a young French boy repairs clocks and automata and solves a mystery. This book is filled with beautiful, textural pencil drawings like the one in image 4.

We also have a selection of interactive picture books that help kids learn how to tell time on an analog clock (Image 5). It’s a skill that not all kids know in a digital age, but these books make it fun.

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Although I’m not officially suggesting that kids in our library can write in the books, I wholeheartedly invite them to visit us and enjoy the collection in whatever way makes sense to them. Families are more than welcome. We’re open on weekdays, 10AM-5PM, and we do have stickers!

Reading Time at HSNY: It’s Complicated - Time and 18th Century Navigation

This post is part of a series, Reading Time at HSNY, written by our librarian, Miranda Marraccini.

Image 1 Diagram from Mårten Strömer, Aequatione Temporis (1749)

Image 2 From Richard Burroughs, A Treatise on Trigonometry and Navigation (1818)

At the Horological Society of New York’s (HSNY) Jost Bürgi Research Library, we have at least 15 books from the 18th century – an era of explosive growth and lightspeed technical innovation for horology. Some of our most well-known horological manuals date to this period.

One of the jewels of our collection is a first edition of Ferdinand Berthoud’s 1763 work Essai sur L'horlogerie (You can view a copy held by the Getty Museum here). Berthoud, an important horologist in Paris, developed his own version of the marine chronometer, a game-changing device that eventually enabled people to determine longitude at sea. Although Berthoud’s invention is not the one credited as the first, it is one part of a fascinating story.

Before the mid-18th century, marine navigation was a serious problem. Mariners could determine their latitude by looking at the angle of the sun during the day or the North Star at night, but they couldn’t measure longitude in the same way. It was, for centuries, an unsolvable puzzle, but navigators did the best they could by using dead reckoning, basically a form of guessing based on an estimate of speed. They also used complicated navigational tables and celestial charts to try to work out longitude. 

The mathematical method took an enormous amount of calculation. In The Mariner’s Compass Rectified (1750), Andrew Wakely writes in his preface about compiling the data for the book: “my Labour was so great, that I almost fainted.” This book, which we have in our collection at HSNY, was written by two mathematicians and published by a printer in London “where you may have all Sorts of Sea-Books,” showing that math and horology were intrinsically tied to navigation. Below, two somewhat crude illustrations from The Mariner’s Compass nonetheless demonstrate effectively how to use two basic navigational instruments, the fore-staff (image 3) and the quadrant (image 4).

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During the course of the century, there was constant debate about how to improve navigation. Some mariners maintained that they needed to be able to tell time at sea so that they could calculate how far they had traveled from their starting point – for British sailors, that would be Greenwich, as in Greenwich Mean Time. But many still believed navigation should be improved by advances in astronomical calculation, rather than the invention of new timekeeping devices. 

Long pendulum clocks, which were the most precise means of keeping time on land, wouldn’t work on a ship that was in constant motion. And although spring-driven clocks had been invented in the late 17th century, they too could be affected by a ship’s movement, as well as factors like temperature (which can cause metal to expand and contract), pressure, and corrosion. So horologists had to come up with something new. The British government even established a Board of Longitude to administer a prize worth up to £20,000 (equivalent to millions in today’s money) for a workable idea.

A number of people tried to solve the problem in novel ways. One theoretical solution was published in the Gentleman's Magazine in 1737, an issue that we have in our library (image 5). The article about the “important secret of the longitude” is signed only “The Farmer.”

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“The Farmer” describes a new clock called the Perpetual Motion that he developed based on the previous work of his “most ingenious” friend, the horologist Joseph Williamson. The author claims it is so precise it will only gain or lose four seconds in a month. 

Though it’s essentially still a pendulum clock, with some improvements, the author claims that if the clock is hung on a ship so that it remains perpendicular at all times, “the motion of the sea will not affect it.” A heavy weight attached to the bottom of the case will “master all Shocks.” This seems doubtful, but the author, citing no less of an authority than Sir Isaac Newton, points out that because of the Earth’s revolutions, “our Clocks on Shore are turned Topsy-turvy every 12 hours,” and they still keep time! He seems to recognize that his case isn’t entirely convincing, and recommends that ships carry “a good Spring-Clock” and “good Watches” as backup, to be reset daily according to the “Perpetual Motion.”

At the end of the article, the editor responds with an acknowledgment of the proposal’s flaws, and an invitation: “And now I ask, whether a better can be framed, and challenge the whole World to produce it.” The horologists of the world, particularly Ferdinand Berthoud, British carpenter John Harrison, and French clockmaker Pierre LeRoy, were working on it.

By the later 18th century, the science of celestial navigation had progressed somewhat, and mariners were starting to use the lunar distance method for figuring out longitude. This series of celestial calculations was first theorized more than 200 years earlier, but not published and popularized until 1763. One of our books, Epitome of the Whole Art of Navigation (1782), promises to teach the lunar method, as well as everything you would need to become a “complete NAVIGATOR,” including lots of logarithmic tables. The primary author is James Atkinson, who also co-wrote the Mariner’s Compass earlier in his career.

Image six shows one of several fold-out maps and charts in this book, along with a diagram of longitude and latitude at left.

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Someone named Samuel Carrington owned this copy, and signed it very neatly in 1784, just a couple of years after it was printed (image 7). It’s a common name, but I did find one record of a London shopkeeper, Samuel Carrington, who testified as a witness to an attempted murder in 1828. It may be our book’s first owner!

The lunar distance procedure described in Epitome of the Whole Art of Navigation caught on quickly. We have another book published around the same time in Utrecht, in French, that discusses the same method. Mariners continued to use it even after the chronometer was invented, because it was cheap and accurate enough for shorter journeys. 

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Finally, John Harrison developed several working prototypes of the marine chronometer, culminating in the H4 in 1761, which served as the basis for improvements by LeRoy and Berthoud, among others. While building his earlier models, H1 through H3, Harrison developed a series of complicated inventions meant to compensate for movement and changes in temperature at sea. In H4, he finally abandoned these, developing a small spring-driven movement with a balance wheel that could oscillate at a higher frequency than the balance wheel in a normal watch, which made it much more usable on a ship. The images below show postcards in our collection from the Royal Observatory and the National Maritime Museum, both in Greenwich, England. They depict John Harrison (image 8) along with his four prototype marine chronometers, H1, H2, H3, and H4 (image 9). 

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As further improvements made marine chronometers more precise, reliable, and affordable, adoption surged. By 1820, enough people had tried out the new chronometers for George Fisher to publish Errors of Longitude, a book in our collection which includes tables laying out how far different expeditions had deviated from their intended course. Fisher calls chronometers “almost indispensable articles” in the “present improved state of navigation,” but seeks to improve their function for the future through detailed observation. And indeed marine chronometers continued to serve their indispensable purpose until the 1960s, when they began to be replaced by electronic systems and eventually GPS. Here at HSNY, we have an American marine chronometer made by Elgin from the 1940s in our permanent collection. For more about marine navigation, library visitors can peruse our modern books on the subject, including Dava Sobel’s Longitude: the True Story of a Lone Genius who Solved the Greatest Scientific Problem of His Time and even kids’ books like The Discovery of Longitude by Joan Marie Galat and The Longitude Prize by Joan Dash.

It would be difficult to overstate the importance of the marine chronometer. It completely changed the course of navigational history, and history in general. Because it allowed mariners to navigate accurately over long distances, it contributed to the dominance of the British Royal Navy and all of the consequences of colonization. This complicated legacy plays out over the history of modern horology, driving the perpetual motion forward, over the horizon, tick by tick.

Reading Time at HSNY: Smokers, Banquets, Galas: Celebrating 157 Years of Horological Tradition

This post is part of a series, Reading Time at HSNY, written by our librarian, Miranda Marraccini. This article was co-written by HSNY’s Deputy Director, Carolina Navarro.

For 157 years, the Horological Society of New York (HSNY) has known how to throw a good party. On April 15, 2023, we’ll be celebrating at our annual gala at the Harvard Club of New York City, just across the street from our headquarters in Midtown Manhattan. It will be a night of tasty food, live music, and support for HSNY’s mission.

Our earliest club social events were “smokers” — not for smoking meat, as I originally guessed, but social events where men smoked tobacco, told jokes, and sang drinking songs in German. The songs were in German because the first members were German — the organization was founded in 1866 as the Deutscher Uhrmacher Verein (German Watchmakers Society). In the late 19th century, the Society went through different variations of German and English names, until 1930 when we adopted our current moniker. (We have a collection of HSNY gala programs and other historical documents at the Jost Bürgi Research Library.)

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One tradition has stayed the same — HSNY members have always celebrated with food. The earliest banquet menu in our archives is from 1912. Printed in German, it is an elaborate joke as it includes some standards like oysters, chicken, and Brussels sprouts, but also some curious items like “enamel filet with cuvette sauce,” “horological cream puffs,” “spindle clock cheese,” and under salads, “etched spiral springs with double-proofed acidic chronometer oil.” All of the delicious dishes involve puns on watch and clock parts. I’m not exactly sure what the men of HSNY did end up eating on March 5, 1912, but safe to say it wasn’t a plate of hairsprings. At right, image 2 shows a banquet menu from 1937 listing some more conventional menu items.

In 1916, the New York Watchmakers Society (as we were then calling ourselves) celebrated its 50th anniversary with both a smoker and a “Golden Jubilee” banquet. Attendees sang songs in English and German, with lyrics comparing the organization to a well-constructed clock that has run for 50 years.  

Though the smoker was the traditional men’s-only celebration, the banquet was not: “this invitation/ Means the ladies too, / Trusting in your expectation/ A jolly time for them and you.” Just 10 days later, the jolly time included a menu of “oyster cocktail,” “chicken consomme en tasse,” “sweetbreads en casserolettes,” “filet mignon with champignons,” and something called “ice cream, piece de resistance” (see image 3). The party roared on into the night at the Terrace Garden on East 58th Street, at the time a popular venue for German-American events. 

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“While we made the conscious decision to not serve tutti frutti ice cream logs as in the 40s, we will be offering a dessert table with an assortment of French pastries after dinner,” said Carolina Navarro, HSNY Deputy Director. “We hope to build on our gala success every year, so for 2023, we're reopening Harvard Hall for after-dinner drinks, live music and mingling. Perhaps we will bring back cigars one day?”

The photographs below (images 4 and 5) show a history of the organization that members produced in honor of the 50th anniversary in 1916; the cover includes our Latin motto, “Ut tensio, sic vis.” This is a version of Hooke’s law of physics (in English “as the extension, so the force”) which governs the expansion and compression of springs, including those used in watches. In image 5, resident jokester and comedy songwriter Rochus Salomon is pictured just above the words “executive committee.” It would have been a tight field in a mustache competition.

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In 1918, the smoker program included a song in English, “Watchmaker’s Smiles,” written for the occasion by Salomon, a native New Yorker who had studied horology in Europe and later served as president of HSNY. “Watchmaker’s Smiles” refers to several current events in its lyrics: “It may be forever we part from the booze/ And it may be for only a while” speaks to the looming threat of prohibition. Conditions are already deteriorating: “We have heatless days/ We have meatless days/ In these piping days of war.” Inflation is happening, too: “The bills in your vest/ Look like tips at their best/ When the price of some things you tell.” 

The song’s reference to World War I hints at one of the reasons it’s in English, not German. Germans had become a national enemy and the Society’s members needed to demonstrate American patriotism. It’s the same reason our 1916 banquet menu suddenly featured the lyrics to “The Star-Spangled Banner.” HSNY membership was also growing more diverse around this time, and not every member spoke German well enough to sing merry songs in Deutsch.

The 1918 song goes on to personify watches according to various political personalities, for instance, “One that will not tick/ is a ‘Bolshevik’.” It also decries “bracelet watches” (wrist watches, which were rapidly gaining in popularity) as “vile”: “You should sweep from the bench”/ This trash into a trench.” It then devolves into an increasingly chaotic chorus, ending in mockery of women’s successful campaign to gain the right to vote. Nevertheless, the diversity of topics covered in this short excerpt shows the kind of society HSNY was: working watchmakers who were concerned about tight budgets and politics as much as trends in horology.

HSNY’s biggest celebrations have been on milestone anniversaries: 50th, 75th, 100th and 150th. Throughout the century, as one 1938 program put it, among our “social and entertainment endeavors…our best efforts are concentrated on our annual banquet and ball…one of the most important trade entertainments of the winter season.” A 1937 group photo (image 6) shows a crowd of about 300 members and partners dressed in tuxedos and silk dresses, with the head table at left accommodating those in leadership positions. 

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1941, our 75th year, was also a particularly patriotic one, taking place just a few months before America entered World War II. An American flag adorns the cover of the program for the “dinner-dance,” and a portrait of George Washington is stamped on the inside (images 7 and 8). The menu hasn’t changed much since 1916 though: still a lot of celery, olives, chicken, and potatoes, with petit fours and a “tutti frutti ice cream logue” for dessert (image 9).

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In 1966, on the occasion of our 100th anniversary gala, the mayor of New York City declared February 26 “Horological Society of New York Day.” After the 1960s, HSNY’s gala programs became simpler and shorter, so I don’t have as much information about what members were eating, but we do have some pictures from the 1960s that show they were snappy dressers, celebrating in style. Image 10 shows our 94th Anniversary Banquet on Valentine’s Day, 1960.

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Although we’ve updated our menu for 2023, we’ll continue HSNY’s century-plus-long traditions at this year’s gala at the Harvard Club on April 15. 

“If you look closely at our gala pictures you can see something interesting," said Navarro. "No, not a picture of Nick Manousos back in 1921 as if he has always been the HSNY caretaker (The Shining reference, anyone?). If you look closely you will find the faces of the very watchmakers and supporters who built up the American watch industry and were dedicated to HSNY's mission we still live by today — to advance the art and science of horology.”

Reading Time at HSNY: Four Centuries of Horological Books

This post is the fourth in a new series, Reading Time at HSNY, written by our librarian, Miranda Marraccini. 

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The Horological Society of New York’s (HSNY) oldest books (see image 1) were published in the 17th century–a century in which Galileo and Shakespeare died, Newton discovered the law of gravity, and tulip mania raged in the Netherlands.

We have several books from this period housed behind glass in the rare books section of our Jost Bürgi Research Library in Midtown. In looking at the images below, you might be thinking, “those books don’t look 350 years old–they look better than some paperbacks I still have from the 70s.” There are a few reasons for this phenomenon, the main one being that during this period, and up until the early 19th century, European paper was made out of old linen rags rather than wood pulp. This early paper was very durable and less acidic than later wood-pulp paper, so earlier books generally tend to hold up better than later ones.

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Our earliest books are in Latin and French. One of our oldest (see image 2) is titled in the long 17th-century style: D. Petauii…Rationarium Temporum…In quo aetatum omnium sacra profanaque historia chronologicis probationibus munita summatim traditur. The very wordy title, which I’ve already shortened for ease of reading, includes the author’s name, Denis Pétau, rendered in Latin as D. Petauii. The rest of the title promises to tell over thirteen chapters “the sacred and profane history of all ages,” including “chronological proof” of when certain events occurred. Our copy was printed in Paris in 1652.

Surprisingly, given its length, the book is an abridged and summarized version of Pétau’s previous work. It attempts to put world historical events in order, a difficult task when taking into account different calendars in use in different eras and the relatively limited number of sources the author would have had access to. Pétau was a Jesuit theologian (and librarian!) whose work on chronology was highly influential, although he also wrote about the history of Christian doctrine and other historical and religious topics. You can browse a later version of this oft-translated text here.

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Tablettes Chronologiques (see image 3), published in Paris thirty years later, is also a work of chronology, covering the whole history of the church “in the East and the West,” including “the ecclesiastical authors” and “the schisms, heresies & opinions which have been condemned.” The title page tells us the book is a reference work “for those who read sacred history.” This book lays out history more schematically, as its title suggests (“tablettes” means “tables”). The text is arranged as tables and includes a shorthand system of symbols for different professions and identities, shown in image 3, on the left hand page. One symbol denotes a poet, while another indicates a mathematician. 

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Another 17th century chronology in HSNY’s library, Les Elemens De L’Histoire (1696), has a bit more of a secular focus, including a long section about the history of noble families and their coats of arms, as well as the official symbols for royal government positions in different countries (see image 4.)

Although all of the books I’ve mentioned so far talk about time, none of them specifically addresses timekeeping or the tools that people invented to try to tell time. One book that starts to talk about horological instruments, published in 1691, is Traité D’Horlogiographie, a French treatise that discusses solar clocks and navigational devices. It has dozens of illustrations showing the most advanced scientific instruments of the time. We have a copy in our library, which is open to the public on weekdays.

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The gorgeous frontispiece (see image 5) depicts a castle flying a flag bearing the phrase “Rien sans vous” (“Nothing without you”), a motto that often refers to the influence of God and can be found in emblem books from this period. However, in this context one could also read it as indicating the importance of the celestial bodies, without which we wouldn’t be able to tell time or navigate. The scene around the castle shows the main subjects of the book: the stars, the sun, ships, a compass, navigational instruments, and geometric models. The image demonstrates how closely horology has always been tied to marine navigation and to astronomy.

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This book has two fold-out illustrations (see image 6) and about 70 other plates (see image 7) designed to help the reader learn the science of celestial navigation. Sundials are some of the oldest known timekeeping devices, and knowing how to read the time by the sun continued to be an important skill for navigators in the 17th century. The images demonstrate how the sun casts specific shadows when it’s at different angles to the horizon. Other diagrams in the volume show how to use the starry sky instead of the sun. In a future post, I’ll cover how 18th century inventors figured out how to accurately determine time at sea, which revolutionized navigation. 

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Our copy of Traité D’Horlogiographie has a French inscription, probably from shortly after the book’s publication, that roughly reads “Make, O God, make me love you more than my possessions, more than myself” (see image 8). The book’s author was a monk, and it seems, given this prayer, that the owner of this copy too was a religious person, perhaps even a fellow member of a religious order. 

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This book, however, is not wholly focused on Christian theological understandings of the universe. As you can see in images 9 and 10, the book includes the signs of the Western Zodiac, still recognizable today, and a palmistry diagram. As it is now, astrology was relatively popular during this period. Astrologers made predictions based on both in-person observations and diagrams in books. Our library contains a shelf of books on astrology, a record of the human quest to make sense of the vast, dazzling, and sometimes imperceptible sweep of existence.

Our 17th century books are small in number, but diverse in subject. Fortunat Mueller-Maerki, the previous owner of these books and HSNY’s librarian emeritus, defines horology very broadly. If you want to read about calendars, navigation, empire, philosophy, or religious ideas about time, we probably have something that will interest you. Time is what you make of it.

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Reading Time at HSNY: Hands of the Clock, Hands in the Book

This post is the third in a new series, Reading Time at HSNY, written by our librarian, Miranda Marraccini. Find the first post here and the second here.

Some might be tempted to think that all technology that exists today is digital, but as watch people, we know that watchmakers still use their hands–their digits–to create intricate, accurate, and beautiful timepieces. As a new member in the world of horology, I’m interested in this kind of artisan labor, and as a librarian, I’m also interested in a different kind of handiwork: handwriting in old books, that shows how these books were used and loved.

One example I recently found in the HSNY archives is a note in a book published in 1824 in London, The Book of English Trades.¹ This book, which was reprinted in many editions, would have been an important resource for young people seeking to learn how to get into “the business”–any business. It contains 78 trades listed in alphabetical order, with details of what qualifications you might need for an entry level position, and helpful illustrations that would allow someone who lived before the internet to understand, say, what a printing shop looked like, or what you needed to start making straw hats for a living.

In our copy, which can be found at HSNY’s Jost Bürgi Research Library, someone has written in an uneven nineteenth-century hand, “Augusta, Harriot & Edith Perry with their Grandmamma Booth’s Affectionate Love - -  Bath 1st March 1855.” The inscription shows that multiple generations of women valued and used this book for at least 30 years after its publication, including a grandmother who thought it was important enough to pass it on to her granddaughters. And they thought it was important too–on the title page “Mrs Harriot Booth Widow” (probably the Grandmamma) signed it herself, and “edith” is written underneath in what looks like a child’s handwriting.

It is important to know that this book covers a number of trades in which women played important roles in the 18th and 19th centuries, including pin-making, spinning, and confectionery. These women may have been working in one of them, although I couldn’t find any definitive evidence of who they were or where they worked.

We own this volume because it contains an entry on watchmaking, “an employment so well known as to require no description” (nonetheless meriting a six page description). The entry, which includes the engraving at right, is lively and attempts to draw in young readers with anecdotes about famed clockmakers like Thomas Tompion, who “began the exemplification of his great knowledge in the equation of time, by regulating the wheels of a jack for roasting meat” (418). 

But most of the text is practical, explaining how clocks and watches work, what a watchmaker does, and what the job requires: “a light hand,” “a strong sight,” as well as some understanding of “mechanics” and “mathematics” (421). It also foreshadows the increasing mechanization of the industry, which like most others, was experiencing rapid change during what would later be known as the industrial revolution: the “invention of engines for cutting the teeth” has “reduced the expense of workmanship and time to a mere trifle in comparison to what it was before” (420).

As for the book’s owners, Augusta, Harriot, and Edith, according to the text, they could participate in watchmaking as watch chain makers, a part of the trade that “appears difficult” but is actually “easy,” according to our author, and therefore suited to women (421). The Booth women, however, clearly educated themselves about the facts of many trades in which they were not especially invited to participate. They were proud of their ownership of this book and active participants in the dawn of the industrial era in Britain.

Despite a lack of encouragement to enter the trade, women were working in watchmaking, and we have evidence of that in our library too. A hundred years after the Perry women inscribed their book, watchmaking students Marinette Golay and Liliane Bandini were taking meticulous notes in their classes on “Horlogerie, Arithmétique, and Réglage” (watch adjusting). Today we have four of their notebooks in our library. 

Below, images from Marinette Golay’s notebook show that she not only took great care in copying diagrams, she also seemed to relish the process of illustrating watch parts. Her drawings are both precise and beautiful, and they use color to distinguish the different parts of a watch, making it easier to follow how repairs could be made. In the image below right, Golay, studying the balance wheel and the hairspring, illustrates the right type of screw to use (domed) so as not to deform the rim of the balance wheel.

We also have three of Bandini’s notebooks, similarly in French, and dated 1953. In her notes below, she is equally meticulous in her drawings. In the first image, she takes notes on different types of hairsprings, noting the ratios required and what type of watch they would be suitable for. In the second set of pages, she observes an example of secondary error, following changes in amplitude and rate in a watch movement over five days.  

I’ve chosen to photograph notebook pages with hand-drawn diagrams because they’re visually interesting, but many more of Bandini’s pages are filled with hard math, calculations about energy and force that any working watchmaker needs to understand at a basic level. Bandini and Golay weren’t just interested in the easy part. They went all the way down to the invisible equations that underpin all the work of the hands. And since we have some of their graded exam papers, we know they were pretty good at it. 

What we don’t know about Golay and Bandini is what they did after watchmaking school–whether they actually worked on watches, either servicing them or in some other context. But in our library, we certainly have evidence of how other watchmakers worked. Around the same time that Golay and Bandini were studying in Europe, an anonymous watchmaker was writing and typing in a notebook, purchased at Woolworth’s, that is now also in our collection. In this ringed binder, the owner detailed their store inventory, took notes on different watchmakers and how to repair different models, and drew diagrams of watch parts.

The image at left above shows typed instructions for jeweling watches, or replacing the bearings of a watch, usually made from rubies, which allow the gears to rotate smoothly. The notebook’s owner has carefully illustrated different types of jewels and notes how to remove them when a watch needs repairing. At right there is a hand-drawn diagram of different types of staking punches, sets of tools used for multiple purposes in watchmaking, including to join or rivet different parts of the watch together. I don’t yet know who this watchmaker was, although the notebook and other details point to an American working in the 1940s and 1950s. Even without the owner’s identity, this notebook can still provide us with detailed information about how working mid-century watchmakers set up shop, and how they studied (and still study) different models to hone their craft and repair beloved watches for future generations.

As a longtime librarian who’s new to horology, I’ve already learned so much about watchmaking from this notebook and other materials in our collection. Many of our items–like this one–are unique, with only one copy in existence. People read them, wrote in them, and used them, often until they were falling apart. That’s what I find most valuable about working with this collection. It’s a privilege to preserve the words and traces of people who labored over centuries, contributing the work of their hands to the story of horology.

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¹ A different copy is available on Google books.

Reading Time at HSNY: James Arthur, A Pleasing Exception

This post is the second in a new series, Reading Time at HSNY, written by HSNY’s librarian, Miranda Marraccini. Find the first post here.

Our current exhibit at HSNY is "Watches from the James Arthur Collection,” which is open to the public by appointment through Winter 2023. The exhibit showcases 14 items from the collection of James Arthur (1842-1930), an immigrant, mechanic, businessman, and inveterate tinkerer who never stopped building watches and clocks.

James Arthur also published Time and its Measurement in 1909, a book reprinted from a series of articles he wrote for the magazine Popular Mechanics. The heavily illustrated volume is brief (only 64 pages) but wide-ranging, covering such topics as Chinese and Japanese methods of telling time, how pendulums work, the Zodiac, and Arthur’s modest proposal to “throw local time out totally and establish one, invariable, universal time.” We have the book in our library at HSNY.

A caption below a picture of Arthur on the frontispiece of his book (shown at left) calls him “an enthusiastic scientist, a successful inventor and extensive traveler” with “the finest collection in the world” numbering over 1500 timepieces. He is “a pleasing exception to the average business man” because of his appetite for scientific study and research. Although the caption claims to have been written by the editor of Popular Mechanics, Henry Haven Windsor, it no doubt reflects the image Arthur wanted to project: not only a successful entrepreneur, but also a learned one, interested in new science and exciting innovation. He was an exception to the usual collector type, too, since he was more interested in mechanical detail than a watch’s purported value or rarity. He liked to alter his watches and take them apart to display how they worked.

Arthur’s book demonstrates, more than anything, that he viewed himself as a horologist of the people, popular in the broadest sense. Popular Mechanics had a tagline at the time, emblazoned on the front page of each issue: “written so you can understand it.” In his series of articles, which became the book, Arthur fully embraces this ideal of accessibility. He writes familiarly, in the second person, addressing “you” as he carefully explains the history and mechanics of timekeeping. He makes it clear that he’s open to exploration and critique. For instance when trying to understand a particular feature of ancient water clocks, he writes, quite modestly: “I venture an explanation and hope the reader can do better, as we are all of a family and there is no jealousy” (19). Arthur even draws some of the illustrations himself, in an attempt to “make it plain” how a clock’s movement actually works (see image at left). All readers, including children, are welcome to learn and even speculate together. 

Time and its Measurement also shows that Arthur couldn’t help talking about his tinkering. He writes about the “considerable number” of clocks he has built, “all for experimental purposes” (40). For example, he uses different jewels for bearings: “in one clock I used agates,” and in another, “running thirteen months with one winding, I used pallets jeweled with diamonds” (40). Arthur includes images, too, of clocks he designed, including the one at right ornamented with a figure of a bull. There’s no particular reason to include this information – Arthur is an enthusiastic amateur, and he wants his readers to feel that they are too.

James Arthur donated his collection to New York University in 1925, along with a generous cash bequest meant to preserve it intact as a museum. That’s not what happened, although the full story is beyond the scope of this article. Arthur’s collection lingered, suffered neglect, and was eventually divided and sold to different entities.¹ The watches we have in the exhibit now belong to the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors.

Despite the disappointing fate of his collection of clocks and watches, Arthur’s legacy lives on in multiple ways. As part of his endowment, Arthur stipulated that a themed lecture should be held every year on the topic of Time and its Mysteries. In the HSNY library, we have several of these lectures in print form, which include titles like “On the Lifetime of a Galaxy” and “The Geologic Records of Time.” The speakers have often taken on broadly philosophical topics, in keeping with Arthur’s chronic curiosity and sense of intellectual exploration. You can watch the 59th (and most recent) James Arthur lecture here

HSNY’s permanent collection also includes one of Arthur’s tall case clocks, recently donated by our Exhibit Curator, Bob Frishman. Although it was an antique when he bought it, Arthur altered this clock to his particular specifications, noting its unusual thick ceramic dial, “just like a dinner plate.” At left is an image of the clock from a chronicle of the collection published in 1932 called The Lure of the Clock, and at right, a picture of the clock as it stands in our library today. It’s still keeping good time. 

Toward the end of his book Time and its Measurement, Arthur laments the limited space he has left to discuss timekeeping. “Those wishing to follow up the subject would require a large ‘horological library’,” he explains. A “five-foot shelf would be altogether too short to hold the books” (42). We have around 800 feet of bookshelves at HSNY, and more archival material in our storage rooms. But it’s still never enough, and like Arthur, we’re always continuing to tinker with and expand our collection for enthusiasts and students of all kinds.

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¹ For more about Arthur’s legacy and how his collection was eventually split up, see Jeanne Schinto’s “James Arthur and His ‘Temple of Time’: A Cautionary Tale for Collector-Donors and Their Beneficiaries,” Maine Antique Digest, 2018-2019. 

Reading Time at HSNY: Inside the Jost Bürgi Research Library

This post is the first in a new series written by our librarian, Miranda Marraccini.

When you visit the Horological Society of New York’s (HSNY) library in person, almost everything that you see on the shelves – books, periodicals, boxes of papers, auction catalogs – is the lifelong work of one person, Fortunat Mueller-Maerki.

Born in Switzerland in 1946, Mueller-Maerki developed a love for clocks and watches at a young age. He was living with his grandfather while he attended the University of Zurich. During this time, his grandfather inherited a 300-year-old table clock and had it restored, after which Mueller-Maerki kept it on his nightstand. It was this clock that first sparked Mueller-Maerki’s interest in horology. 

He didn’t make a conscious decision to collect clocks. “I don’t know how I got to [clock] number two,” Mueller-Maerki says. “We had a few nice antique clocks in the house.” Instead, his passion developed slowly while he pursued a full life outside of horology: an exchange student program in Pennsylvania that was his first experience in the U.S., college in Switzerland, then married life in an apartment in the schoolhouse where his wife Ruth worked as a teacher.

After a three-month tour across the U.S. in a Volkswagen camper, Mueller-Maerki enrolled in the MBA program at Harvard University. He completed the degree in 1975 and began a 25-year career at a groundbreaking executive search firm, Egon Zehnder, “the only employer I ever had,” as he says. He and Ruth had three children.

After settling into his life in the U.S., Mueller-Maerki became a member of the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors (NAWCC), and started taking technical classes in clock repair. “I wasn’t good enough to do watches,” he claims. He says he doesn’t have the coordination required for their tiny parts. 

He also began to build his collection in new directions. “I have a collector’s gene in me,” he tells me. “I had dozens of clocks from all over the world.” But Mueller-Maerki, already a bibliophile, was very practical. Print publications were more affordable than watches and required less space than clocks – for him, it’s very important that “you can get more items on the shelf!” 

Mueller-Maerki still collects anything and everything, printed or handwritten, that could conceivably be related to timekeeping, aiming to create “the broadest defined horological specialty library in the world.” He’s proud to have preserved materials that, most likely, no one else has thought worthy of keeping: brochures from swap meets, email newsletters, postcards, advertisements, and syllabi from watchmaking schools. These items together make up a truly unique and comprehensive archive of modern horology, which Mueller-Maerki has assembled with great care.

His library, still growing, numbered nearly 25,000 items at the time of donation, including books, journals and rare ephemera in many languages. He also created a comprehensive database and catalog of horological publications. 

Throughout his life in horology, Mueller-Maerki has been a leader in the National Association for Watch and Clock Collectors, including as head of the NAWCC Library Collections Committee, NAWCC Board member, and Silver Star Fellow (their highest honor). His prolific writings about horology are an important scholarly resource, including articles for the NAWCC Bulletin on diverse topics: longcase clocks, astronomical dials, and how watches were used to identify the dead during World War I.

Horologist and longtime friend Bob Frishman writes: “The incredible study tours he led were in Europe and America, and included visits to private collections and museum storage areas where the public is not invited…His extensive contacts and friendships here and abroad provided that special access.”

Donating the library

Mueller-Maerki donated his library to HSNY with the intent to make it available to the largest number of people possible and to aid in future horological research. Over the course of the pandemic, the collection was painstakingly relocated from his house in New Jersey to New York City.

In choosing the name for the library, he decided to honor Jost Bürgi (1552-1632), a brilliant Swiss clockmaker, mathematician, and astronomer. Bürgi worked as an engineer in the court of Holy Roman Emperor Rudolf II, inventing several important horological devices that allowed clocks to become much more precise. He is also one of the mathematicians credited with the discovery of logarithms. 

We dedicated the library in a ceremony on October 21, 2022, unveiling a plaque with Mueller-Maerki’s likeness. Mueller-Maerki is the Librarian Emeritus and visits the collection regularly.

The building and space

When you visit, you’ll get a chance to explore the historic General Society Building in which our library is located. It was built as a boys’ school at the end of the 19th century. The building now belongs to the General Society of Mechanics and Tradesmen, which was founded in 1785 and still provides free courses on topics like HVAC systems and construction project management. It’s also a frequent filming location for New York-based productions. The room that the General Society uses as a library (and that HSNY uses for monthly lectures) was originally a gym that schoolboys used for military drills.

A number of other organizations including HSNY, the Institute of Classical Architecture & Art and the New York Botanical Garden occupy offices on different floors. We’re on the fifth floor in a beautiful, 2,000-square-foot purpose-built library with grand, arched windows. It’s a great space for quiet research, watch-related events and horological community gathering!

About the librarian

As HSNY’s Librarian, I came into the picture much later, starting in July of this year. I’m a lifelong bibliophile who collected fountain pens, typewriters, and watches as a child growing up in Miami. After finishing a Ph.D., where I researched a group of women who founded their own printing press in nineteenth-century London, I spent three years as a librarian at the University of Michigan. I’m thrilled to be the steward of HSNY’s Jost Bürgi Research Library.

Fortunat Mueller-Maerki built a multilingual, time-spanning, interdisciplinary collection – one that I’ll be writing about regularly in our new series: Reading Time at HSNY. I hope that my posts will give you a tiny taste of this vast collection’s treasures. In my next installment, I’ll introduce you to James Arthur, who collected thousands of clocks and watches and tinkered his way into horological history. I’ll be covering our rare book collection century by century, and we’ll learn about celestial navigation, women in watchmaking, and what HSNY served for dessert at our gala in 1916. Whether you’re interested in visiting the library in person or just hearing about our weird, amazing, unexpected collection, please keep reading.